Blend All About Wine Arquivo de wine - Page 2 of 17

Esporão – Monte Velho red 2015 and Quinta dos Murças Reserva 2011

June 7, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

The Alentejo and the Douro regions are two of the most renowned Portuguese wine regions. More than looking at the sales numbers, which can hide arguments about preferences, the live voice says a lot about the reasons of the choices.

Here, in these two regions, are produced wines easy to please, and that’s no motive for censorship … yes, as in almost everything, there are defenders that say that only the difficult, angular, complicated or eccentric things are good. So, for me, the easiness of liking is not synonymous of poor quality or pleasure incompatibility.

Companies exist to make profit, and naturally many firms produce in these two regions or at least market with their own brand wine that they purchase on one of them. The Esporão is one of the companies that advanced from the plains to the mountains.

The Esporão is a project of anticipation. Joaquim Bandeira realized the potential of the region, that at the time was very focused on cereal and cork production. José Roquette understood the vision and went with the idea.

Its foundation happened in 1972 and the venture would eventually be postponed due to the Reforma Agrária (Agrarian reform), Marxist-inspired, which took place after the 25 April 1974 revolution. After the revolutionary period and the entrance in the then European Economic Community (1986), came the calm period that allowed the economy to proceed smoothly.

The Herdade do Esporão in Reguengos de Monsaraz, was restored in 1979. The winery was only completed in 1985, the year in which the first wine was released, and whose label features a John Hogan painting.

Ever since that first wine that the firm illustrates each vintage with artistic works. The principle has been followed since the Quinta dos Murtas’ first edition, located in the Douro, where photography is the art chosen.

Art is not the Esporão’s sole eccentricity. The firm has adopted a sustainable agriculture policy, with recovery of watercourses, soils, flora and fauna – something that has also helped saving in pesticides.

Another madness was the new winery, built in the traditional mud system, which allows the building’s climate control without having to resort to demanding and costly refrigeration appliances.

Another oddity is the respect for the historical heritage, the preservation of a medieval tower, an arch and a Renaissance chapel, and the excavation of a vast archaeological area with remains of up to 3,000 years before Christ.

These crazy things – synonyms that I left unquoted for more creasing – are called respect and intelligence. Respect for nature and the ancestral wisdom and intelligence because they result in cost savings.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Esporão-Monte Velho red 2015

Blend-All-About-Wine-Esporão-Quinta dos Murças Reserva 2011

Now that the company Esporão is presented, let’s advance to the two wines that justify this text. The Monte Velho red 2015 (Regional Alentejo) and Quinta dos Murças Reserva 2011 (Douro).

The Monte Velho red 2015 marks the 25th anniversary of the brand and the label is illustrated with a pattern of Alentejo traditional blankets. This wine was made with Aragonês, Trincadeira, Touriga nacional and Syrah grapes.

It is a wine to be drunk casually. It’s not a big wine, a nectar for special occasions. It can be classified as a safe bet, because vintage after vintage remains in a regular level of quality.

The Quinta dos Murças Reserva 2011 is more demanding. It’s a blend of Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão and some more that the producer does not mention specifically. Grapes from vines with over 40 years. The fruit was foot treaded in granite lagares and in a vertical press. It aged one year in barrels of French and American oak.

It’s a nectar that shows the Douro and wants food to eat slowly. It’s from the 2011 vintage, a year of excellence in the country and in the region. To be drank before the arrival of the tremendous nights of heat of summer. Or wait for cooler times.

Contacts
Herdade do Esporão
Apartado 31, 7200-999
Reguengos de Monsaraz, Évora – Alentejo
Tel: (+351) 266 509 280
Fax: 351 266 519 753
Email: reservas@esporao.com
Website: www.esporao.com

Monte da Ravasqueira presents Summer collection and also…

June 1, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Returning to Ravasqueira is a pleasure. The property is beautiful, imposing and well arranged. I went back there this Spring and I saw, for the first time, the buffer coupling car collection, all in immaculate condition, the oldest being from the eighteenth century.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Buffer Coupling car

The wine was, again, the reason for this visit. The offer is already broad. This time I got to know novelties and I was introduced to new editions of some references, such as Monte da Ravasqueira Vinha das Romãs. Since summer is upon us, comes the pretext of telling about the suggestions of this Arraiolos firm.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Vinha das Romãs

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Syrah + Viognier

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Vioginer

The Syrah grape variety and the Alentejo have a long and happy love relationship. The same happens with the Viognier. The Monte da Ravasqueira Syrah + Viognier 2015 was made with the grapes mixed during fermentation, in the fashion of Côtes du Rhône. The Monte da Ravasqueira Viognier 2013 is in the form of sin. It’s confirmed the mutual passion between the land and these grapes.

As for the summer, this house features two whites and one rosé, all from the year 2015 and demanding sand and salt water, shade and pool, living and grills.

The Monte da Ravasqueira Sauvignon Blanc 2015 is fresh and the citric character seasons the grape variety’s tropicality. Feels good and is great for the conversations of the endless afternoons.

The Monte da Ravasqueira white 2015 is more complex and more interesting. The winemaker Pedro Gonçalves Pereira created a ball of Alvarinho, Arinto, Semillon and Viognier. The grape varieties complete themselves rather than trampling each other. It’s good to drink by itself, but the ideal is to have it with food.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Sauvignon Blanc

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Branco

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Rose

But the one that delighted me the most was the Monte da Ravasqueira Rosé 2015, made with the Aragonês and Syrah grape varities. This one wants to party! Asks for conversation, food and pool jumps.

Did I say findings? Yes, I did say. Touriga Franca and Sangiovese.

Touriga Franca in Alentejo? Sangiovese in Alentejo? Yes, it’s true. The adaptability of the first outside of the Douro is a rarity. At least, a clearly positive result. The second one is a rarity in Portugal. However…

However, at Monte da Ravasqueira in Arraiolos, the two varieties are grown and have already given grapes for wine, both are from 2012. At the lunch table, Pedro de Mello and Filipe de Mello asked by desires. Once the requests were made, came the bottles.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Sangiovese

Blend-All-About-Wine-Monte da Ravasqueira-Wine Collection-Touriga Franca

The Monte da Ravasqueira SG 2012 is stunning. Also stunning is the Monte da Ravasqueira TF 2012. One thing leads to another, and we took advantage of the absence of the winemaker to play of sorcerer’s apprentice. The blend was made by eye with 70% Sangiovese and 30% Touriga Franca. I think adding 5% to the Italian and removing from the Portuguese will make the wine better.

But, my business is not oenology… I leave a pungent appeal: Pedro Gonçalves Pereira think about it! Make 1,000 bottles and I’ll buy them all! Since I mentioned it… it never hurts to hear “The Sorcerer’s Apprentice”, symphonic poem by Paul Dukas inspired by a work of Johann von Goethe. By the way, watch or rewatch “Fantasia”, the animated film that Disney made in 1940, based on the work of this French composer of the nineteenth century, in which Mickey Mouse plays the role of a wayward youth.

Contacts
Monte da Ravasqueira
7040-121 Arraiolos
Tel: (+351) 266 490 200
Fax: (+351) 266 490 219
E-mail: ravasqueira@ravasqueira.com
Website: www.ravasqueira.com

Quinta da Gândara

May 27, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

This white wine comes from the Sociedade Agrícola de Mortágua (Agricultural Society of Mortágua) and was produced at Quinta da Gândara, founded in 1756. From the granitic soils through the mountains of Caramulo and Bussaco are born the grapes that give place to the two wines now tasted, a white from the grape variety Encruzado and a Touriga Nacional red. Lacking more detailed and accurate information, I just want to register that these wines are part of Caves da Mantanha’s (Bairrada) “squad”. These are wines that fall under a profile that does not turn its back to the region, however, it is noticeable that everything is done in a more modern way and to the image of our days. It’s not that that’s bad sign, these are just signs that the region has known how to evolve and reposition itself in order to meet the demands of the market and new consumers.

A sign of this are the more modern wines. Wines that are more ready to drink and with more honed tannins where the aging and life in the bottle are often left aside. We are therefore faced with the immediate pleasure and we lose that keeping potential that gave so much fame to regions, such as the Dão. The question is whether this is the way forward or if it was just a shortcut that was chosen seeking early success. Both wines bear the designation Reserva. The aging was made in new French oak and lasted seven months for the white and ten months for the red.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Gândara-Wines

The Quinta da Gândara Reserva Encruzado 2013 has a rich aroma, is ample with a clear presence of wood entangled in ripe fruit, and has some dried fruit pointing to an precocious evolution. The rest of the set is fresh, medium-sized, with a mineral clipping background reminding flintlock, vanilla. A medium weight profile with good dose of freshness. On the palate combines ripe fruit with lemon pie notes, it’s ample and with final dryness.

The Quinta da Gândara Touriga Nacional Reserva 2011 is the opposite of the white. Its aromas immediately take us to the Dão. The set has a good freshness showing a fresh and mature Touriga Nacional, floral, orange peel with a slight tip of austerity and exuberance. All packaged in a sweet tooth tone with notes of cocoa, spices, forest fruits jam, wrapped in freshness with cohesive mouth, a lot of energy with austerity in the background, fleshy and full of flavor.

Quinta do Gradil

May 25, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

In December, children write to Santa Claus to tell him they behaved well during the year and ask for gifts. I no longer have the age for that! Nowadays I write to the summer and ask to have a few quiet days with sun, during the its period of governance.

Instead of toys, I ask to have wines to comfort me while I convince myself that the summer will be eternal and that I’m still able to swim across the Sesimbra Bay. I’ll write here about some wines from Quinta do Gradil that I have in the bag.

Quinta do Gradil is located in Cadaval, in the Lisbon wine region. The property is very old and had several distinguished owners, the first was Marquês de Pombal (The Marquis of Pombal). In total it has 123 hectares of vineyards and nowadays is birthplace of several wines.

The oenology is in charge of António Ventura and Vera Moreira. I have often expressed my admiration for this oenologist, who is perhaps the one that produces more liters of wine in Portugal. What impresses me here is the way the grape varieties differentiate themselves while keeping their identity … how many times do we find equal wines of different grape varieties? Therefore, here, there is an added didactic value, features that help understanding the grape varieties.

António Ventura completed 32 years working in Quinta do Gradil. He says that 2015 was a good year for reds in this property.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta do Gradil-Mula Velha

The Mula Velha Rosé 2015 is dangerous! In the good sense. It was made with Castelão and Tinta Roriz grapes and has an acidity recommended for lighter fare of summer. As for me, I think it works best as a company for the carefree conversations during the vacation…

The Mula Velha Reserva White 2015 was made with Arinto and Fernão Pires grapes, and some Chardonnay grapes. This one is a good friend of summer foods.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta do Gradil-Viosinho 2015

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta do Gradil-Sauvignon Blanc e Arinto 2015

The Quinta do Gradil Viosinho 2015 is the summer in a bottle. Very fresh, brings together mineral and tropical characteristics. It has the “grace” of being done with an improbable variety. There is no record of this Douro grape variety going so far south the country. It is a wine to accompany conversation and shellfish.

The Quinta do Gradil Sauvignon Blanc e Arinto 2015 is almost a classic. It is known that these two grape varieties work well together, and this producer early found the right formula. As the previous wine, it is a wine to accompany conversation and shellfish.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta do Gradil-Chardonnay

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta do Gradil-Syrah and Touriga Nacional

The Quinta do Gradil Chardonnay 2015… Oh man! I really enjoyed it. It is unctuous and complex, with structure, it’s not heavy or cloying. To me, the wines of this property are always a good company for a conversation. This one likes to be at the table and is a good match for poultry meat.

The Quinta do Gradil Rosé Syrah e Touriga Nacional 2015 is a wine for… the table and banter. Beautiful.

Contacts
Estrada Nacional 115 Vilar
2550 – 073 Vilar | Cadaval
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 262 770 000
Fax: (+351) 262 777 007
Mobile: +351 917 791 974
E-mail: info@quintadogradil.pt
Website: www.quintadogradil.wine

Quinta de Foz de Arouce and Buçaco – Two battles and two wines

May 18, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

I promised myself to write this chronic a long time ago. But, since nothing happened that would make it an emergency I was postponing it. Now has come the time that makes it urgent. The matter concerns two iconic wines from ‘unlikely’ and ‘impossible’ locations.

One was made with grapes from an absolutely magical place, which is located nowhere. Foz de Arouce does not have the right to use any designation of origin. Silly things of the Portuguese, who are able to accept the unification of locations in one region even though they look nothing alike and aren’t contiguous…

If it was in France, an inescapable reference in the recognition of quality and differentiation, Foz de Arouce would have the status of the Burgundy micro-regions. It would probably be a ‘monopoly’. But the Arouce River is located in Portugal, as is the Ceira, who receives it.

The other wine refers to a concrete place, but one that is not a wine location. The Bussaco (with two ‘s’) is beautiful and has one of Portugal’s most beautiful and historic hotels. However, the grapes that make their wines are from Bairrada and Dão. Now, this makes one plus one equals zero – having no right to use the designation of origin.

Though the wines are made with the grape varieties Baga from Bairrada and Touriga Nacional from the Dão, the Buçaco wines (with «Ç», so that it does not conflict with the bureaucratic dictates) are wines that can be said to mirror their territory because the vines have been the same throughout the years. It is as if they came from a single Quinta, divided by two specific regions. Authenticity and charisma abound.

Allowing myself to push the concept out of the established, I say Bussaco is a terroir of cellar and bottle. I will assume as true the geographical location of the hotel. And so, these are two vinous places that are in a plasma dimension – neither solid nor liquid.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Foz de Arouce-Two wines-Bussaco

Bussaco in wikimedia.org

Looking at the map, Bussaco and Foz de Arouce are not far from each other, just 36 kilometers. The path is beautiful and the road demands attention. The computer says that the trip between the two places takes 50 minutes. However, it took me more than an hour when I visited the two places in 2011.

I mentioned that the Buçaco red wines are made with Baga and Touriga Nacional. That is because Foz de Arouce’s vine consists of those grape varieties. The winemaker and wine entrepreneur João Portugal Ramos is son in law of the Counts of Foz de Arouce and a few years ago he added the Touriga Nacional to the plantation that consisted only of Baga. The Quinta de Foz de Arouce Vinhas Velhas de Santa Maria remains the same, while the Quinta de Foz de Arouce is now a result of the two grape varieties’ merging.

I’ve already praised Foz de Arouce’s wines here. What I bring today is a special and commemorative edition. It’s a 2007 wine, produced to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Foz de Arouce in which stood out a family member of current Count.

The Battle of Foz de Arouce was not a moment of transcendent importance in the context of the Peninsular War (III French Invasion). Some even just designate it as Fight of Foz de Arouce. It happened on 15 March 1811 when the Napoleonic army was retreating, pressed by the Anglo-Portuguese forces. Leading the allies was Arthur Wellesley (the future Duke of Wellington) and leading the invaders was Michel Ney.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Foz de Arouce-Two wines-Duke of Wllington

Arthur Wellesley by George Dawe

Blend-All-About-Wine-Foz de Arouce-Two wines-Andrè Massèna

Andrè Massèna by Edme-Adolphe Fontaine

Blend-All-About-Wine-Foz de Arouce-Two wines-Monument

Monument to the III French Invasion in panoramio.com

Bussaco was also source to the name of a confrontation of the Peninsular War, with greater importance. It happened on September 27, 1810 and leading the Anglo-Portuguese side was Arthur Wellesley, and leading the French was the commander of the III French Invasion, Andrè Massèna.

The Allies came out victorious in both clashes. As for the wines, those who have the opportunity to have them do not hesitate. Face them and let yourself be conquered. They will win and the oenophiles will deserve them.

I notice I’m evoking a specific wine of a particular year and another wine of which I haven’t even mentioned the year. I’ll add “all” Foz de Arouce wines and “all” Buçaco wines to the list. And why? Because they are all wines that deserve to be known, and that keep (obviously I haven’t drunk all the vintages, but I’ve came across many) their physical identity characteristics and differentiation of years. They are nectars able to evolve over time and to live long. This generalization is conscious and voluntary.

I am averse to the list of descriptors, as for me, it just sums up the wine to a “thing”, because it becomes reductive. The “small wines” don’t surprise in the definitions and “great wines” surprass that characteristics’ counting.

The Quinta de Foz de Arouce – Batalha de Foz de Arouce 200 years (2007) has in it what its siblings Quinta de Foz de Arouce and Quinta de Foz de Arouce Vinhas Velhas de Santa Maria have. The wine is more than the grapes, it is “that place”. Fortunately it’s not the same, as otherwise it would not be worth having another name, there would only be difference in the label. I drank it and I would keep drinking it longer had not the bottle only 0,75 liters. It has many years ahead.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta de Foz de Arouce-Two wines-Batalha de Foz de Arouce 200 years

Quinta de Foz de Arouce Batalha de Foz de Arouce 200 years

Buçaco L2004 Reservado

The Buçaco L2004 Reservado has the greatness it’s expected to have. Great in all aspects, alive and elegant, with many years ahead. The bottle had the same problem as the above: only 0,75 liters.

By the way, I’ll explain the “L2004 Reservado” reference: because it is a table wine, supposedly the lowest category in the scale, this Buçaco could not carry its year indication. However, the description of the blend could be whichever one that the producer wanted. So, these nectars blends have the same numbering of the vintage year to which they correspond. Bureaucracy is not an exact science, it is often just stupid. Intelligence wins. Why can’t the table wine be “reserva”? But once again the bureaucrat was dribbled, the term ‘reservado’ is not covered by the objections.

And like this, a bit of Portugal’s history was told.

Quinta da Lapa – In the land of Pina Manique with good wines

May 16, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by Blend - All About Wine

Text José Silva | Translation Bruno Ferreira

This Ribatejo property has almost 300 years and it’s said that Pina Manique may once have lived over there. It was bought by the businessman Canas da Costa. For his daughter Sílvia, an architect, it was love at first sight. Besides the impeccable restoration of the manor-house, where now runs a beautiful rural tourism with 11 suites, Sylvia fell completely in love with the vineyards.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Quinta

And thus was born a successful wine project by hiring the winemaker Jaime Quendera and his tremendous experience. The vines are aged between 15 and 25 years, with indigenous grape varieties but also some from other regions, and even some foreign ones that have adapted to that soil and climate: Arinto, Tamarez, Trincadeira das Pratas, Tincadeira Preta, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Alicante Bouschet.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-The Vineyards

Thanks to the predominantly clay-limestone soils with a big influence of the Tejo river water, which used to invade the margins with its ancestral floods, these wines acquire not only acidity but also some minerality that makes them desirable. In Rural tourism they also throw events where the house’s wines are drank alongside meals made in the huge and well-equipped kitchen or prepared by a friend of this house, Mr. Afolfo Henriques, the well-known man from the village of Maçussa.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Suite

The 11 suites are all different. On some of them the existing spaces were recovered and have many pieces of furniture that were also recovered, beautiful. The central building, square, has huge yard with shady trees providing a beautiful effect. Around the house we find the vineyards and some olive trees shaping the landscape of the whole Quinta. In the Quinta’s set of buildings we find the cellar, small, simple but well-equipped, including the barrels’ room that are essential to age some of the reds that we all enjoy.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Barrels Room

This time I’ll write about a meal that culminated with the presentation of the Quinta da Lapa’s new vintages. First the bread, from Maçussa that Adolfo Henriques himself bakes, crispy outside and fluffy inside, tasty, irresistible. Then we had some snacks: melon with ham, tasty and fresh, exquisite cod roes with dried tomato, smoked salmon, velvety with a sophisticated taste and, of course, the Maçussa’s chèvre cheese, both natural and breaded with arugula and jam. Wonderful.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Melon and Ham

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Smoked Salmon

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Chevre Cheese

The main course was a delicious roasted kid with rice, mushrooms and roasted potatoes. On the side a simple but superb salad of lettuce and red onion.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Roast Kid

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Lettuce Sallad

The meal ended with a chocolate cake in good company, a true delicacy.

Then we tasted Quinta da Lapa’s new vintages, starting with the sparkling Quinta da Lapa Bruto Natural made with the Arinto grape variety. Great freshness and elegance, the acidity always very present, a beautiful sparkling wine.

The Quinta da Lapa Reserva White 2014 made with Arinto and Tamarez is very fresh on the nose with some tropical and citrus notes. Mouth full of freshness and balanced acidity.

There are several monovarietal wines starting with the Quinta da Lapa Touriga Nacional 2012, a grape variety that adapted quite well there. Very aromatic, floral and elegant intensity. The palate is persistent, intense, with very good fruit, good acidity and a long finish.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Sparkling Bruto

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Reserva White

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Touriga Nacional

The Quinta da Lapa Merlot 2013 shows itself authoritative, fiery, with ripe black fruit and some chocolate notes. Beautiful volume, well-married tannins and intense acidity, a very balanced set.

The Quinta da Lapa Syrah Reserva 2012 has black fruit aromas and some spices. It’s complex and intense. In the mouth it has large volume, it’s powerful but balanced at the same time, with silky tannins and a beautiful finish.

Finally, the Quinta da Lapa Cabernet Reserva 2012 with complex aromas of wild fruits, plants of the hill, some vegetal notes and spices with much elegance. In the mouth appear very ripe black fruits, an excellent acidity, well tamed tannins. Very complex and intense.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Merlot Reserva

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Syrah

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Cabarnet Sauvignon

The Quinta da Lapa Reserva 2011, perhaps the most complex of all, has very ripe fruit aromas, spices and tobacco and chocolate notes. In the mouth it is very harmonious, persistent, silky, with a long finish, a wine full of finesse.

Then came the two special wines of this Ribatejo house. The Quinta da Lapa Nana Reserva 2011 is the producer’s heartfelt tribute to her mother. It comes with plenty of fruit, some spicy notes, very fresh. The palate is very elegant, persistent, velvety, with red fruit and some floral fragrances and a long and steady end.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Reserva Red

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Nana Reserva

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Reserva Homenagem

Finally, the Quinta da Lapa Reserva 2013 Homenagem 500 anos Santa Teresa d’Ávila – a celebratory wine full of fruit and spices on the nose, very elegant and haughty. Intense and balanced in the mouth, simple but authoritarian at the same time. A special wine, in honor of Teresa de Ahumada, whose poem of faith is immortalized in an existing headstone at Quinta da Lapa:

Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta da Lapa-Headstone

“Let nothing disturb you,
Let nothing frighten you,
All things are passing away,
God never changes.
Patience obtains all things.
Whoever has God lacks nothing.
God alone suffices.“

From Ribatejo, with love…

Contacts
Agrovia, Sociedade Agro-Pecuária, SA
Quinta da Lapa
2065 – 360 Manique do Intendente
Tel: (+351) 263 486 214
Mobile: (+351) 917 584 256
Email: geral@quintadalapa-wines.com
Website: www.quintadalapa-wines.com

Tasting the History: Frasqueira Soares Franco

May 13, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

In the adventures and misadventures of an oenophile there are moments that mark our journey, and this is almost always because of one or more unforgettable wines. I can’t think of anything more exciting than literally come face to face with a preciousness and make way discovering its history. That’s exactly what happened to me with two rare specimens from Frasqueira de António Porto Soares Franco, whose wines are part of the Soares Franco family’s assets located in the headquarters of José Maria da Fonseca, more specifically in the Adega dos Teares Velhos. Going back to António Porto Soares Franco’s time, who at the time was a partner of the Companhia de Aguardentes da Madeira, the routes to the Madeira island opened many doors and opportunities for business, that’s where the Abudarham name comes in. Consulting the book “Madeira: The islands and their wines by Richard Mayson”, we can learn that Joseph Abudarham had dual citizenship, English and French, and that he arrived to Madeira in the first half of the XIX century. He settled there in the wine business, with access to the best that was produced at the time, but also in the cash loan business, which would later give rise to the Companhia de Seguros Aliança Madeirense. His wine business was centered on bottled wine and was sold mainly to France and Germany. After his death in 1869 the company was renamed to Viúva Abudarham & Filhos and would eventually be sold to the Madeira Wine Association, which is today the Madeira Wine Company. Now that I knew its source and its merchant, the only thing left to observe were the details in the small tape stuck to the bottle, the permanent ink on the label could barely be seen and faintly indicated 1795. After some research and exchange of data I came to conclusion that the wine in question was a Terrantez 1795 of which several bottles were auctioned some years ago. The cork came out with the strength of the blades, intact and with the brand José Maria da Fonseca, a sign that the corks are changed every x years, something that was confirmed by the producer himself.

Blend-All-About-Wine- At the flavour of history Frasqueira Soares Franco-Table

The second bottle tells a different story, thus bringing us to the Port wine. It also boasts the Frasqueira Soares Franco name and the label only shows R.M 187X. Given the age of the two bottles time has taken its toll on the labels and with them their precious information. In the case of the Madeira they saved up the date on a paper tape, and in the Port wine’s bottle there’s something left on the back label. Later I confirmed that the initials refer to Ramiro Magalhães, a former Port wine merchant who lived in Bombarral. Ramiro Magalhães was an important man in his land and a great wine dealer that at his time would have been one of the firsts to have car and driver. On the back label we can see the missing number, thus getting the vintage’s full year, 1878, the last pre-phylloxera year. In this case there won’t be much more to say, the remaining information only references the year in question, which was considered classic Vintage year.

Blend-All-About-Wine- At the flavour of history Frasqueira Soares Franco-Glass

Frasqueira Soares Franco – Abudarham – Terrantez 1795: It’s amazing the ability that this wine has to perfume a whole room. As soon as it falls in the glass we get mesmerized by the shades that glow in the glass, a wine with 221 years showing the reason why even after all of the wines are served during the dinner, when the Madeira comes in it’s the king of the party. In this case the wine is breathtaking and unforgettable. First of all, a slight peak of volatility before conquering us with a warm and cozy tone of caramel, vanilla, toffee, preparing us for the next clash, a huge freshness. And it’s that same freshness that dominates us and leaves our hands attached to the glass. A WOW comes out immediately, it’s like those rollercoasters that we just want to keep on repeating. With this wine it’s the same, it’s a comes and goes of sensations, the aromas stuck in time go bouncing off the glass, there’s a slight sensation of unctuosity full of freshness, and in the background something that recalls the smell of cigar ash. The palate is another struggle, a conquest that holds us with caramel and burnt sugar, slightly rounds up to the point where we almost crack it, and then fires up in a crazy spiral of acidity with slight bitter in the aftertaste. Unforgettable.

Blend-All-About-Wine- At the flavour of history Frasqueira Soares Franco-Vinho Madeira

Blend-All-About-Wine- At the flavour of history Frasqueira Soares Franco-Vinho do Porto

Frasqueira Soares Franco – Ramiro Magalhães – Vintage 1878: A Vintage with 138 years of life. Yes, I said life, because although the tone reminds me of an old tawny its freshness and aromatic definition are remarkable. Very precise and delicate, great elegance with aromas of sweet tobacco, fine spices, candied orange peel, raisin fruit with dates, a cozy set and slightly unctuous. On the palate comes greedy, unctuous and with good volume in the mouth, a slight of vinagrinho, it’s almost like a sweet and cool marble that tears itself on the palate until it remains only a thin, long finish. Majestic.

Wine Snob

May 9, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Boring people are boring! People Who want to be boring can manage to be boring. Being boring is probably one of the few things that does not require having a proper education, family or genes. The talent in being boring does not imply having talent.

Now, being a snob is something different! If a boring person is an expert, the snob is boring person with a PhD. A snob can go for hours talking about the nuances of fishes’ livers, the evolution of the aesthetics of the Maserati’s rims or the green’s importance in the Islamic culture. For a snob, the Goldberg Variations by Glenn Gould are mundane.

Above all … or below all … a snob is an arrogant. No gentleman belittles or brags. So, a snob is someone without nobility – sine nobilitate, the Latin phrase from which came the English word.

This is because in wine there are boring persons and snobs … the boring ones are fun in the taverns and the snobs are unbearable in the lounges. In the taverns it’s no big deal to change places or flee, in more formal environments it’s not quite the same.

It sounds simple, but I’ll complicate it. I believe no one has the right to impose their tastes and concepts. However, differences between individuals can be large and the breakdown is inevitable. Other people don’t have to see the Touriga Franca as the world’s best, as I am not obliged to like the Antão Vaz.

A few days ago I tasted wines with people of different nationalities and I realized that besides the banalities that set quality standards, nothing was converging the noses and mouths. The problem wasn’t in recognizing the quality or the lack of it, but in the difference of the attributes that separate a well-made wine from a good or excellent wine.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Wine Snob-Drinking rose

Tasting Rosé in fm.cnbc.com

A rosé should be sweet? A rosé should be sweet and have no acidity? A rosé must have, above all, acidity? They may seem silly questions, but it was a present subject. I am not the owner of reason and the opponents weren’t foolish or ignorant. They were people used to tasting and justified their statements.

We, the Portuguese, have the craze to praise our wines because they accompany well the food and have acidity. Is this an advantage? We say it is … and if we just want to chat the night away, will we insist on the obligation of acidity? However, is a syrup happy in softening a dialogue?

We, the Portuguese, have the craze to praise a lot the fruity character of our wines … but … is it an advantage? Honestly, the fruit often tires me and if it’s to taste like fruit, then I’ll drink juice – makes me want to scream.

This said debate did not end with the rosés. This episode was just the best illustration of translation of crib, latitude, longitude and culture (ethnic sense). But I can add information from another conversation.

When we value or penalize a wine by its color, are we being fair or accurate? I’ll get around reds and whites … Is a rosé better or worse if it’s pink, salmon or orange? Is the color important or not? Or does the wine give pleasure through the senses of smell and taste and we just like to add things that are not connected?

Blend-All-About-Wine-Wine Snob-Rose colors

Rosé wine colors in characterspub.com

I have even heard, more than once, that the wine is fantastic, because it appeals to all the senses. Smell? Right! Palate? Right! Tact? Yes, in the mouth it shows roughness and softness … Eyesight? It has color, so you can see it looks good. Hearing? … We can hear the cork pop out.

I swear! I’ve heard this feat more than once. I have to say that I don’t hold myself of happiness and joy when I hear the sound of a cork popping… It’s me with the cork and Pavlov’s dog with the bell! Quite frankly! And the color? Honestly, I only care for it while serving, to indicate the health of the wine. Debating color tones is as useful as knowing Pantone color references.

Ah! The color of the Pinot Noirs… which ones? From Burgundy or Tejo? Wine is for the nose and the mouth! I think debating the color of the wine – excluding the visual assessment that lets you know the wine’s sanity – is like discussing skin tones.

I don’t have knowledge or time to discuss the differences or variations of the grape varieties according to their location. Neither for certainties about the immutability of the characteristics of the wines of each region. The boring person knows everything, including the things that doesn’t know. The snob knows and thinks he knows everything, or at least more than others.

In the end only one outcome is enough for me: pleasure. Either I had it or not. Fortunately, the mentioned conversations weren’t with boring people or snobs. What could have been a nightmare was a learning experience. The truth does not change, but because the points of view vary, the knowledge is diverse.

I still do not like sweet rosés without acidity. But now I know that compared with a sweetened soda this wine can be fantastic.

PS: I was a Snob before, now I’m just boring!

Arundel, around the lands of Pavia with Joaquim Arnaud

May 6, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Pedro Carvalho

Text João Pedro de Carvalho | Translation Bruno Ferreira

Joaquim Arnaud is a name that has been around since 1883 and that has been passed on from generation to generation as tradition. He’s a descendent from an Alentejo family, from Pavia, documented there since 1515. A family that has always been dedicated to mounted, olive groves, vineyards, cereal cultivation and livestock (pigs, cows, sheep and horses). Their properties are located in the municipalities of Mora and Arraiolos, in the Évora district. In 2010, in order to maximize these resources, Joaquim Arnaud decided to create his custom brand, to which he gave his own name. His business goal is based on bringing to the market selected products with short runs, in which he combines the artisanal with sophistication. This is how producer Joaquim Arnaud presents himself, the wines that he creates in his cellar speak for themselves. In this tasting I only focused myself on the wines coming from Alentejo, more properly Pavia.

His wines express a will and an ideal and are made to his liking. This led him to move away from the scrutiny of the Comissão Vitivinícola Regional Alentejana. In this way he doesn’t feel cramped or trialed, he freeform creates his wines coming from the terroir of Pavia. His range of wines has been being broadened and we can notice that over there there is no rush to launch novelties or new vintages, the wines are only made known when Joaquim Arnaud believes that the time is right. So, even during the tasting, we oscillate between the strength of youth and the exemplars with tannins already educated. Of the five presented wines I decided to separate them into three groups:

Arundel Young 2013 and Arundel Petit 2012 are the example of youth and the fruit’s strength, both with a dose of austerity providing a very good energy to the set. Both share the same blend comprising of Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet, varying only in the time spent aging in barrel, 6 months for the Young and 9 months for the Petit. Wine with a fleshy profile, dense, with the Alentejo marking its presence with a quality bouquet emanating notes of plum, blackberries, spices and jam. Good freshness and purity of aromas in a conquering and breathtaking set. Wines asking for food nearby, grilled meats are the perfect match at this time.

The wines resulting from the partnership with Trienal do Alentejo are more recent. The first release is the Arundel 36 2009, which results from a wine that was literally forgotten in the cellar and originated a the small amount of about 500 bottles, aged for 36 months in barrel. A serious and fresh set showing a mix of sweet fruit with red blueberry notes, strawberries and blackberries, a slightly floral fragrance with spice in the background. Great set harmony with a good mouth passage. A more open profile and less concentrated but creasing the entire palate with fruit flavors and spices. Ends broad, with a slight dryness in the gastronomic side that is the hallmark of this house.

The second edition goes by the name Arundel T & T 2012, a blend based on the grape varieties of the previous two wines that aged in barrel for 12 months. For the most curious T&T are the initials of the Trienal and Terranagro (production company of Joaquim Arnaud’s wines). Another example that combines finesse, freshness and fruit. In this case the fruit is less present giving place to a more floral and spiced side. The red and acid fruit, with tones of raspberries and blueberries appears in the background next to a light earthy/graphite. Mouth full of flavor, a slight dryness in the background, much cocoa, tobacco leaf and fruit.

Culminating with the Arundel Great 2008, 400 bottles of a wine that aged 12 months in barrel and another 24 months in bottle. A 100% blend of Alicante Bouschet. A sweeping red right from the first contact, such is the finesse and lasciviousness that it displays. Pure class, great harmony of an adult wine and ready to provide pleasure, very fragrant with juicy and fresh fruit on a huge quality bouquet where everything shows up well-defined. Not nipped by time at all, showing that it has managed to evolve for the better side. Like all of this producer’s wines shows a good Alentejo character, asks for table and shines brightly alongside some wrapped partridges.

Portuguese Wine – Fashion or Justice?

May 2, 2016 no comments in Uncategorized by João Barbosa

Text João Barbosa | Translation Bruno Ferreira

It seems that not a day goes by without the Portuguese gastronomy being news subject, positively, whether referring to food or wine – mainly the drink. In the view of this, how do I feel like being Portuguese? I don’t know and the reason is because I don’t know whether to attribute this to fashion or justice.

Those reading will say:

– How do you not know? You ought to know. If you write about wine it is mandatory for you to know.

True! But there is always a parallax error, the result of affection and memory. The subjectivity that dictates that the mother’s food is the best in the world or that the Portuguese national team deserves, right from the first game, to win the football championship.

I’m not a fanatic, but my roots are in Portugal. Of course I think the highlight that the country is having on gastronomy has more of justice than fashion. There is certainly evaluation error, although hopefully reduced.

Being fashionable is good! It cheers up, provides self-esteem, gives notoriety. However, it’s something passenger. If something is always in fashion it’s because it’s not about fashion, instead it means quality in abundance.

Fashion is cyclical and the quality is structural. So, those inspired by recognition just have to keep insisting in the search of quality differentiation. In this way it will get an increased value.

That’s why I do not like to hear that saying something has a good relationship between price and quality. I do not see that as something praising, although the majority of people consider that that means a good opportunity or justice.

Paying ten cents for a hectoliter is a good relationship between quality and price? IT IS! It is because, regardless of quality, anyone who takes the opportunity will make money with it. But that does not mean the wine has quality… of course not. The problem is that the premise isn’t that, but a balance between one thing and the other.

Blend-All-About-Wine-Fashion or Justice-Portuguese wine

Wine in tasteportugal-london.com

I want Portuguese wine to get the reputation of the French or Italian wine – just to cite two examples. Producing well is within reach of those who engage, and getting it done cheap is within reach of those who get afflicted workers.

Obviously, expensive does not mean quality. Moreover, no one likes to feel stupid, so paying 50 euros per 0.75 liters of swill will be a once in a lifetime episode. Justice is at the point where a product is sold at the same price that another with comparable quality.

Having a “good relationship between quality and price” can helpful initially and relieve pressure on the treasury. In the medium term it becomes unfair. If I still haven’t convinced the reader, I have the ultimate argument:

Portugal turnovers more with fruit and vegetables than with wine. This means that the added value (VAT) is not paid fairly. Generalizing and assuming that the cost of land is comparable and that the factors of production are comparable, it’s way more profitable to make sprouts than wine. There are no expenses with the oenology or with longer storage and the tied in capital is much smaller.

Back to the beginning, Portuguese wine has been recognized and in various ways. Of all the news, I value those that do not address the price factor. I refer to the critic’s assessments, with qualitative scores only, or to victories in prestigious competitions.

People will say that great wines, those that cost about the same as a small car of the city, do not enter the competition, so the victories are relative. Of course, those who have something to lose do not go into play. The new arrivals are the ones that must show worthiness. Young riders challenge the great lords.

It is said that “he who sings scares away his woes”, but the music has been rough to the Portuguese. In 48 editions of Eurovision Festival, in which Portugal failed only four editions, Portuguese musicians never managed to go beyond the sixth place – Lúcia Moniz in 1996 with “O meu coração não tem cor” (My heart has no color).

The fault lies with the dictatorship, but the young democracy was not awarded. Because Portugal buys few television programs, but other small countries buy the same and have won. Because the Portuguese language is difficult, but Brazil is a musical superpower … almost anything goes to justify the defeats.

While the Portuguese music doesn’t win the Eurovision Festival and the lusophone literature does not reach the more than fair second Nobel Prize, the wine gives us encouragement, soothing the sorrows.

Let the lasting recognition come. And I’m almost certain that when the Portuguese winemakers manage to solidify the reputation, the gastronomy (some signs are already emerging) will become ‘mandatory’, which will take critics of the red book – not the one of the Maoism, but the one of the tires – to post stars in houses that have earned the right to bear them for many years now.

Posts Tagged : wine

Esporão – Monte Velho red 2015 and Quinta dos Murças Reserva 2011

Monte da Ravasqueira presents Summer collection and also…

Quinta da Gândara

Quinta do Gradil

Quinta de Foz de Arouce and Buçaco – Two battles and two wines

Quinta da Lapa – In the land of Pina Manique with good wines

Tasting the History: Frasqueira Soares Franco

Wine Snob

Arundel, around the lands of Pavia with Joaquim Arnaud

Portuguese Wine – Fashion or Justice?