Blend All About Wine Arquivo de José Silva - Page 3 of 6

Wine and art bond (Aliança) in the heart of Bairrada

October 6, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Aliança has belonged to the Bacalhôa group for some time now. It has successfully maintained and refined its very own identity. Although it produces wines in other wine-growing areas, it mostly identifies with Bairrada, and that is where it’s located.

While Aliança sparkling wines convey the company’s prestige and market acknowledgement, their Bairrada wines have shown gradual growth, and are asserted today as excellent wines from a region that freed itself from its ties to now travel far and wide, full speed ahead, always headed for quality. Aliança brandies continue resting in the depths of the cellars, taking their time, yet continually delivering the same extraordinary quality.

In a recent visit, we took an interesting walk round the cellars and round the revolutionary museum, which they call Aliança Underground Museum. It lodges hundreds of amazing pieces of the owner’s vast collection, which are well worth the visit. Many wines they produce and store in the cellars share this cultural trip.

It is also where sparkling wines are undisputed rulers, as you would expect, even judging by the number of ageing bottles. Down the low, dark halls covered in mould that build up the constant dampness, which – along with low temperatures and a small thermal interval – offer the best conditions for these wines to develop with natural gas.

The brandies fill up the lowest part of the cellars, where an incredible amount of very old wooden casks encase them inside that surreal atmosphere.

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We tried none other than the house’s wines and bubblies in a very interesting tasting led by Francisco Antunes, the company’s director of oenology and a big expert in the region, with many years of experience in producing both still and sparkling wines; he is addicted to hunting, and is always in a contagiously good mood.

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We began with Aliança Branco Reserva 2014 (white), made of Maria-Gomes, Bical and Arinto – a warrior wine. Citrus yellow, crystal-clear, a lot of white fruit on the nose, a little floral, very elegant. On the mouth, it’s dry, very refreshing, citrusy, medium-bodied – a modern wine. It makes a great choice at €2,15 a bottle. We move on to Aliança Tinto Reserva 2012 (red), made with Baga, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz. A lot of fruit, a lot of freshness, and youth. On the mouth, it’s intense, persistent, maintains quite a few notes of ripe fruit, and tamed yet very present tannins – a food-friendly wine.

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The Aliança Tinto Baga 2009 revealed all of the Baga variety’s aromatic excellence. It’s intense and has a lot of fruit and notes of jam; it’s round, has good volume on the mouth, very ripe red fruits, powerful and very well defined tannins, excellent acidity and a long finish. A beautiful wine that already tastes very good, but will age very well and for many years. We move on to the bubbly wines, starting off with Aliança Rosé Baga-Bairrada Bruto, a buzzing product in the market. Of a very soft salmon-pink and very small bubbles, it proved very elegant on the nose, a little floral, and with notes of red fruits. On the mouth, it’s dry, with excellent acidity, beautiful structure and a lot of elegance – a modern sparkling wine.

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Next followed Aliança Baga-Bairrada Bruto 2013, a citrusy, crystal-clear drink, with small, very elegant bubbles. On the nose, it revealed notes of green apples, a few nuts and toast. On the mouth, impressive freshness and vibrant acidity; dry, intense, lightly toasted notes and a long and delicious finish – an excellent Bairrada wine. We ended the tasting with a classic, the Aliança Bruto Vintage 2010 of lightly toasted shade of yellow and very small bubbles building a persistent bead; an exotic nose with notes of nuts, walnuts, toast, and nutmeg. On the mouth, it’s powerful, dry, very complex, of intense acidity, voluminous, full, creamy, and with an everlasting finish – an excellent sparkling wine.

We move on to the table, where we tasted a few of these wines, which accompanied a range of appetisers – petingas [small sardines] and carapauzinhos [small horse mackarel], codfish buns, and suckling pig rissoles.

After that, an oven-roasted cockerel with pea rice. For dessert, cheese, marmalade and pão-de-ló [sponge-cake]. The Aliança wines continued to flow through our glasses.

Outside, we said goodbye, and “see you soon”…

Contacts
Aliança – Vinhos de Portugal SA
Rua do Comércio, 444
Apartado 6
3781-908 Sangalhos
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 234 732 000
Fax: (+351) 234 732 005
E-mail: alianca@alianca.pt
Website: www.alianca.pt

The New Chryseia 2013…

September 29, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

This time, the Prats & Symington partnership, between the Symington family and French oenologist Bruno Prats, have selected chef José Avillez’s restaurant Belcanto in Lisbon to present their new wines: Prazo de Roriz Douro Doc 2012, Post Scriptum Douro Doc 2013 and the cherry on the cake, Chryseia Douro Doc 2013.

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Representing the Symington family, Rupert Symington came along with Bruno Prats, who once owned Château Cos d’ Estournel, in Bordeaux, before he fell in love with Douro. Let us be reminded that the 2011 Chryseia was considered the third best wine of the world by North-American magazine Wine Spectator in 2014! It thus sold out quickly, and was immediately followed by the 2012 vintage. The market has been out of Chryseia ever since. Therefore, everybody present shared curiosity and anxiety to taste the new vintage, Chryseia 2013.

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Chryseia 2013-Bruno Prats

We were welcomed with quality and friendliness, which this venue has always delivered. We started, as is traditional of the Symington family, with the Paul Roger champagne, in this case the Brut Rosé Vintage 2006, which tasted superb and at the right temperature even though it was a hot day. While in a chatting mood, we enjoyed the several delicious appetisers being served round the room to accompany the champagne, or vice-versa, poured with the finesse one expects from a two-Michelin-star restaurant: round lupin seeds with kaffir-lime and piripiri (chilli pepper), XL-LX olives and cherry gazpacho. The tone was set.

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Chryseia 2013-Galinha-dos-ovos-de-ouro

Already at the table, we were poured a Prazo de Roriz Douro Doc 2012, with the typical deep-ruby appearance. The nose presented a lot of very ripe fruit, notes of blackberry and plum and a light floral aroma. Very voluminous on the mouth, full, intense, but elegant; plump dark fruit, acidity and freshness in perfect balance, and a good finish; a wine that can still evolve in the bottle for a few years. It accompanied the Ferrero Rocher, roast chicken, and the chef’s own creation, called A horta da galinha dos ovos de ouro [The vegetable garden of the goose that laid the golden eggs], eggs, crunchy bread, and mushrooms… Art by chef Avillez’s kitchen right there on our tables.

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Chryseia 2013-charcoal-roasted red mullet

We were still leaning back in our chairs, enjoying those amazing flavours, when we were served the Post Scriptum Douro Doc 2013. Of a deep, dark garnet, it revealed fresh notes of figs, plums, blackberries, and some spices. On the mouth, it proves very young, fresh, with excellent acidity, intense tannins, but it’s already very well matched to the fruit, leaving a lasting and delicious finish. This paid very good company to the charcoal-roasted red mullet with liver sauce and Bulhão Pato-style clam purée, a very elegant and refreshing, delicious dish.

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The most awaited moment arrived; Chryseia Douro Doc 2013 was swishing around in glasses, in a dark, intense, opaque garnet. Very exotic on the nose, of characteristic aromas of dark fruits, yet some raspberries, light spicy notes. Despite the intense tannins, this wine is extremely elegant, round, well-structured and has a never-ending finish. It will last a very long time… That is, if it makes it thus far! It stood up very well to a superb ox-tail with chickpeas, foie gras, veal tendons, onion cream, and cheese from the Azores Island. It was hard to describe, given the complex flavours in this very high-level dish, which made a perfect match for the Chryseia. Dessert was yet to come, and the Quinta de Roriz Porto Vintage 2000 was served; a Douro classic, still very dark in the glass, with intense dark-fruit aromas and already revealing light notes of nuts and some chocolate.

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Very voluminous on the mouth, and full of structure, a lot of fruits, notes of spices, smoke, wild plants, a wine that will not stop evolving, with a very lasting finish. It accompanied a disconcerting dessert: chocolate, banana and peanut, for a perfect end to the meal…

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Chryseia 2013-Graham’s Tawny 30 Anos

With the top-up espresso and the petit fours, the Symington family tawny tradition: Graham’s 30 Year Old Tawny Port, full of nuts, crispy, extraordinarily elegant, a great Port wine.

Cheers!

Contacts
Quinta de Roriz
São João da Pesqueira
5130-113 ERVEDOSA DO DOURO
Portugal
Tel: +351-22-3776300
Fax: +351-22-3776301
E-mail: info@chryseia.com
Website: www.chryseia.com

A grape-harvesting weekend in Douro…

September 22, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Grape harvests have started in full swing all over the Douro region, with a hand from the weather. It was in a grape-harvesting atmosphere that we spent our weekend at Real Companhia Velha, comfortably settled in Palácio de Cidrô.

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We enjoyed all the architectural beauty, the wonderful gardens, and the silence of the cool nights under clear skies.

A very pleasant “ambulant” dinner party awaited, as it escorted the first and very traditional wines of this company. Shredded codfish, fried codfish buns, thin veggie omelettes, vegetable rice, homemade moist cake and a variety of fruit.

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Besides the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir sparkling wines (the latter tasted very good), we tasted the traditional whites from Cidrô – Sauvignon-Blanc and Semillon – and the reds Cabernet Sauvignon with Touriga Nacional and Pinot Noir. But a surprise, a Quinta do Cidrô Cabernet Sauvignon, was yet to come… a 1996 still full of life. We ended with Port wine, of course, Colheita 1986, which quickly slipped down our throats.

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The next day, after a delicious breakfast, we arrived at Quinta das Carvalhas in two shakes, accompanied by all the beauty of Douro.

And there it was, waiting for us, Sousão vineyard. A herd of grape pickers was already at work; we joined them in the hard task of picking bunches of grapes.

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When we arrived, they quickly provided a bucket, gloves and scissors.

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Harvest over, we continued going up the hill, stopping here and there as Pedro Silva Reis told us about the constant evolution of the company.

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The more we looked, the more overwhelming Douro became.

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When we arrived at Casa Redonda, with that amazing 360º view over the Douro river, our cameras couldn’t stop shooting, “dictated” by the landscape. Miguel Torga would have said: “It’s too much Nature!”

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A few appetizers awaited, as well as a rich “feijoada à transmontana” (a bean, cabbage and meat stew), one of the most typical meals during the grape-harvesting season.

Lest we forget, the Carvalhas wines in new clothing. Whites full of freshness and excellent acidity, the reds fully bodied, young, with very ripe fruit, amongst them the amazing Tinta Francisca, very elegant, replenished, and exquisite. The wines are really very good, modern and nicely presented. Álvaro caught up with us and amused us with many stories and info about his biggest passion, wine production. But it was time to go to Quinta da Granja in Alijὀ, where the huge cellar was working hard on the harvest.

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Blend-All-About-Wine-Quinta de Cidrô-Jorge Moreira

In the cellar, we picked grapes from a tray as we listened to Jorge Moreira’s explanation, the main oenologist. He even gave us samples from the vats.

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Finally, the bravest squashed the grapes of red wine and Port inside the granite winepresses. It was celebration of the harvest. We still had time to taste a meatball and a few glasses of wine before we went back to Cidrô, tired but happy.

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All refreshed and buttoned up, we gathered in the first floor palace hall to share some snacks and wines, among which the Evel XXI tasted very good. Very lively, it conveyed finesse to the brand; the Sauvignon-Blanc Cidrô was absolutely delicious as usual. At the wheel, Pedro Silva Reis revealed his good taste and friendliness once more.

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Sitting at the table, we enjoyed a crispy alheira (garlic sausage) with fried egg and greens, followed by roast loin with roast potatoes.

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We ended in the best way with a Vintage 1997, which embraced our spirit.

In the background, the happiness in Álvaro’s live music gently rocked us and made us smile…

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In the morning, after breakfast – those scrambled eggs with tomato were unbelievable! After that, it was farewell and back home.

I mean, it was a ”See you soon!”

Contacts
Real Companhia Velha
Rua Azevedo Magalhães 314
4430-022 Vila Nova de Gaia
Tel: (+351) 22 377 51 00
Fax: (+351) 22 377 51 90
E-mail: graca@realcompanhiavelha.pt
Website: realcompanhiavelha.pt

Areia Restaurant Bar, a delicious meal by the sea

September 8, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

One day, this genuine Minho lady, born in Caminha, decided to devote herself to cooking, a passion that gradually took her over, and is now her whole life. Fishing is, together with agriculture, one of the main sources of income in the district; taking all this into account, Margarida Rego started researching, studying, tasting and trying to get to know products at the higher end. And so she continued creating dishes, making changes and even some provocations, without neglecting the traditional good things from her homeland. She also enjoys meeting her suppliers, some of which are also her friends.

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These were the reasons why she embarked on managing a space which isn’t much more than a beach hut, Areia Restaurant Bar, in the beautiful Praia do Carreço, a bit further north of Viana do Castelo.

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Margarida still keeps the place as a beach hut, where she serves snacks; however she has adapted it – both indoors and the terrace outside – to serve her very unique cuisine, which evolves according to what becomes available, especially products that come out of the sea: sea urchins, red-beak goose barnacles, rock crab, the always excellent bream, – and when it’s tastier – the very octopus, john dory, sea bass, prawns in their season, and a real passion for seaweed from that very same sea, and which she cooks superbly. The meat as well; either pork, beef of the barrosão or cachena breed, depending on what is available.

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Besides, there’s all that modern and airy modest space right on the sand, fully invaded by that amazing landscape, and the all-mighty sea in the background. The service is remarkable, with quality staff, who serve you pleasantly and efficiently throughout the meal, including an exquisite wine service.

Although it was a bit windy, we decided for the al-fresco area, which turned out right. Bottles were opened after having been kept cool in a frappé, while we drank them.

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Various kinds of bread were served, with olive oil and different condiments; all of a sudden the percebas (or goose barnacles in the north of Portugal) appeared, absolutely gorgeous!

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Immediately followed by already opened rock crabs, full of eggs, tasting of the sea.

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Also tasting of the sea were the ready-peeled sautéed prawns on a bed of delicious seaweed, their antennae were well fried and crunchy; we ate them all.

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That’s when the first provocation arrived – a rock crab soup. First, they served the dish with its contents, and immediately poured the rock crab broth over them; excellent.

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The octopus was very tender, served with batata a murro (literally punched baked potato), sautéed cabbage and a very soft red pepper foam – very good.

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Margarida’s second provocation followed, an excellent john dory fillet on a bed of green beans and various types of seaweed – symbolizing both the countryside and the beach, which you can see on either side – and also a celery and garlic purée.

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To rinse our palate and prepare for meat, we were surprised with a sea urchin, very refreshing with little bits of strawberry.

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Then it was time to eat meat, or barrosã in this case, it was cooked just right, very tasty, with a side dish of delicious mushroom risotto and a green salad where rocket and purslane stood out.

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The meal ended with a superb chocolate mousse, sprinkled with… salt flower, and the effect was unbelievable.

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During the meal, we strolled through the António Futuro whites, a modern and appetising young vinho verde by Vale de Ambrães; another verde was already mature, well structured, and consistent; then, the elegance of an Alvarinho by Quinta de Santiago, mineral, saline, and very refreshing. The Ortigão sparkling wine brought along a young and very lively modern Bairrada to prepare us for the right Alentejano: complex, very elegant, well matched with the wood, the Esporão Reserva. At last, a delicious Quinta da Manoella appeared on the scene, Douro in all its strength. For the last drink, a Port full of tradition, Quinta Seara d’ Ordens LBV 2010, that lingered in the mouth for a long time.

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The sea, oh well… it was still right in front of us…

Contacts
Areia Restaurante Bar
Praia de Carreço
4900-278 Carreço
Viana do Castelo – Portugal
Tel: (+351) 258 821 892
E-mail: geral@areia-restaurantebar.com
Website: www.areia-restaurantebar.com

Narcissus Fernandesii Restaurant

September 1, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

A five-star hotel in Vila Viçosa was the latest news about two years ago and has proven very successful. Seeing as it belongs to a family involved in the marble business, it’s only but natural for marble to be the noble raw material most used in the decoration. There’s a touch of marble of different colours and different origins everywhere, conveying a very unique glamour to the space around. Refined and highly comfortable bedrooms and en-suites will offer you an invigorating and peaceful stay. The tranquility of the beautiful Vila Viçosa invites you for a stress-free walk around it, including a visit to the old castle and The Palace of the Dukes of Bragança, an amazing museum, which tells you a bit of the History of Portugal. Afterwards, when you arrive back at the hotel, all the comfort and support are there to help you recover from your walk: outdoor and indoor pool, and a perfectly well-equipped spa. Professional, competent and friendly staff will wait your every need. In the morning over a fantastic breakfast, in the afternoon or evening in the bar and, of course, in the restaurant, one of the attractions of this hotel, curiously called ‘Narcissus Fernandesii’. A wide space with two separate rooms and an outdoor terrace looking on the pool.

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In the main room, wide and elegant, a huge table stands out – a large glass top sits on a gigantic stand made of a single marble slab. The breakfast items are displayed on it, and it can also host meals served to groups of guests. Lighter meals at lunchtime and the à la carte menu for full-course meals in the evening.

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There’s always excellent local bread and olive oil from Alentejo, but also some very tasty butter preparations.

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Some appetisers to start with – always very well presented, such as codfish morsels in a mint açorda (spiced, cold broth), farinheira buns, red onion jam, and shoot salad, or partridge pie with fruits of the forest, and sautéed seasonal mushrooms.

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Traditional soups can’t be missing, like pumpkin cream with poached egg and croutons made from Alentejo bread, pumpkin soup with truffle cream served in a cup, and a delicious purslane soup.

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Or a foie gras with a sharon-fruit emulsion, foie bonbon and acorn toast, unbelievable.

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Codfish can’t be missing, like codfish with Galician olive crust over potato à brás and algae purée; even some fish and fresh seafood, like the carabineiro from the Algarve (special large prawn from this region) with cauliflower purée and coriander, endives and lemon emulsion.

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And the richness of a steer tornedó with foie gras, sautéed vegetables, roast potatoes and spinach cream, or venison smoked in oak and rosemary, with a Madeira wine reduction, broad beans and coriander shoots, quince cream, cauliflower in breadcrumbs and a crunchy presunto (prosciutto) made from beef.

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The desserts are fantastic, but the Vila Viçosa orange variations were superb.

Vila Viçosa awaited in its serenity…

Contacts
Largo Gago Coutinho Nº11
7160-214 Vila Viçosa
Portugal
Tel: (+351)268 887 010
E-mail: reservas@alentejomarmoris.com
Website: www.alentejomarmoris.com

Brasão, a successful restaurant that treasures tradition…

August 28, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

It’s near Felgueiras, and has been practising traditional cuisine for quite a while, even after the required modernisation of the premises. Entirely leaded by Mr. Carvalho, the owner and chef de cuisine with has an undeniable passion for what he does.

Brasão it’s a very pleasant space, with two separate dining rooms, both displaying the same care for table layout and for the attentive and professional service.

Even though the kitchen is his main post, our host is always running back and forth, ensuring his customers are not neglected, and going from table to table to greet them and find out what they feel like having. He’ll come back to the tables later on, to find out about how they liked it, always wearing a smile and the wisdom of many years handling these products and the kitchen. The point is exactly the quality of the products, for only first class ingredients make part of their stock, from fresh fish from the coast to cod, and all the meats: either pork, beef or calf, and mountain lamb, all of which he turns into unbelievable dishes. This excellent professional reveals a restless search for perfection, even when preparing a mere dessert. Wine is another of his passions, and real treasures can be found in his well-stocked cellar (just to mention an amazing collection of bottles of aguardente – rum-like liquor or spirit –, about which Mr Carvalho is deeply knowledgeable. On our last visit, we were served bread and broa (corn-bread), salpicão (pickled-pork sausage) and thinly sliced presunto (salted or smoked ham) while we waited for one of the house specialities: grouper soup.

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It’s a real tribute to quality, very fresh fish in generous portions, garlic, lots of onion, green and red pepper, and coriander.

Some toast on a plate, a generous ladle, a bit more steaming broth, an overpowering aroma, and finally voluptuousness, as you eat with your eyes closed.

Afterwards, we tasted a superb oxtail stew with greens, which is very hard to describe such was its perfection, texture and flavour; amazing! Then, another bestseller usually only available on Wednesdays (or by order): roasted ox spareribs.

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The slab of baby back ribs is seasoned and roasted in one piece and then carved in front of you, after the coat of fat is removed.

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On your plate, you get slices of meat with that tasty layer of fat, crunchy sliced-potato chips, black beans and a sinful oven-baked rice, which also accompanied the oxtail. We are over the moon!

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That’s when dessert is served, an ensemble duet composed of toucinho do céu (‘Bacon from heaven’, a rich-custard sweet which includes no bacon whatsoever) and of a fantastic carrot cake: soft, sprinkled with sugar and slices of roasted almonds, pumpkin jam and some spearmint leaves… now this is heaven on Earth!

The wines were up to scratch: first we drank a white from the Amarante area, called Sem Igual (Nothing like it); very floral, with notes of citrus and white fruit, a remarkable elegance on the mouth, a beautiful modern wine. To “counterbalance” the meats, no better than a sparkling red made from the Vinhão variety, Afros Yakkos Grand Reserve 2006. Simply fantastic, with very fine bubbles, persistent fruits of the forest, notes of dark chocolate, intense yet simultaneously elegant tannins, and a long lasting finish. To go along with the dessert, the choice of an old aguardente – really old –, the classic Adega Velha. This one was over 50 years old; beautiful, slightly cooled, with toasted aromas, dried fruits, in a lovely contrast with the sweetness.

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However, a surprise was yet to come, just the way Mr Carvalho’s likes it: another very old aguardente, which I hadn’t seen for 10 years, a Serradayres. Also over fifty years old, incredibly soft and very elegant, it made a perfect finish for a great meal.

In Brasão, tradition is kept alive…

Contacts
Cimo de Vila – Refontoura
4610 Felgueiras
Tel: (+351) 255 336 118
E-mail: info@restaurante-brasao.pt
Website: www.restaurante-brasao.pt

Quinta de Santiago

August 25, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Quinta de Santiago, on the doorstep of Monção, right in the middle of Monção and Melgaço sub-region, the first-choice land for Alvarinho wine.

This very ancient property has been in the same family for several generations, and it’s also where Alvarinho grapes have been growing. The present owners’ daughter, who makes a living as a lawyer, is responsible for producing and distributing the farm wines, a passion that arose unexpectedly, albeit with a very peculiar explanation. Joana and her brother used to spend their holidays apart; he would stay with one pair of grandparents while she would stay at their grandparents who lived in Monção, that is, in Quinta de Santiago.

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And that’s when her love for the land started; she learnt how to recognize the aromas, to pick fruit and vegetables and, when time came, she watched the harvest, and the grapes being crushed, at the same time helping around and getting everything ready for the new wine to be well prepared.

The bond with her grandmother grew stronger. At the time, her grandmother used to sell the wine to local coffee shops and grocer’s, keeping a small amount for their own consumption.

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When new rules and regulations were passed, her grandmother started selling the grapes, putting a certain amount to the side in order to produce her own wine. Although it was Joana’s father’s dream to produce wine for the market, it was her grandmother who, at the age of 86, challenged her son and granddaughter to work together to plan a project for the production of her wine. They both took her advice and that’s how, in 2009, the project of Quinta de Santiago came forward. Their first wine turned up in 2011.

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Nowadays, Joana Santiago lives with her husband in Ovar and splits up her daily life between her job as a lawyer and her job as a producer of wine in Monção, where she recently opened up her new cellar, sketched and built by her husband in record time.

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Modern, very practical and well equipped, this cellar is Joana’s new addiction and she spends as much time as she can there, following every step related to the production of her two wines: Alvarinho and Reserva.

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However, she reserves the old cellar underneath the old living quarters for wine tastings and group meals. Fairs, festivals and competitions are all part of her present life, some all over Portugal and even abroad where her wine, filling 15,000 bottles a year, has been well praised.

Nowadays, her wines are a big hit, highly appreciated, besides constituting an actual business, which Joana proves to be the leader of, and the person responsible for this life-project.

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Quinta de Santiago Alvarinho 2013 in quintadesantiagoalvarinho.blogspot.pt

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Quinta de Santiago Reserva Segredo da Avó 2013 in quintadesantiagoalvarinho.blogspot.pt

Quinta de Santiago Alvarinho 2013 is a typical Alvarinho, showing lots of minerality, loads of tropical fruit (a quality of these wines), citrus, peach, passion fruit, and tonnes of mountain flowers. On the mouth it maintains the intense flavour of the white fruit; it shows freshness and excellent acidity, beautiful volume and it always has the characteristic minerality. All this makes this Alvarinho a very elegant wine.

Quinta de Santiago Reserva Segredo da Avó (“Grandma’s secret”) 2013, is a serious wine, full of complexity on the nose, still revealing some exotic white fruit, soft smoky notes, slightly toasted, confirming that it was aged in casks. On the mouth, it shows structure, it’s full and elegant at the same time, persistent, fresh, with lively acidity, still revealing ripe fruit and light notes of spices, and always that delicious minerality in a very gastronomic wine.

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These are Joana Santiago’s “boys”, a self-confessed “Alvarinho lover”…

Contacts
Quinta de Santiago
Rua D. Fernando, 128, Cortes – Monção
4950-542 Mazedo
Tel: (+351) 917557883
E-mail: wine@quintadesantiago.pt
Website: quintadesantiagoalvarinho.blogspot.pt

Quinta do Cume looking down at Provesende…

August 18, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Jorge Tenreiro and Cláudia Cudell own Quinta do Cume, in Provesende.

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He is a vascular surgeon and she used to paint beautiful paintings. He still uses a scalpel every day, but he also discovered pruning shears and other instruments he uses to “operate” on his vines; she hardly paints any more, because she has dedicated her heart and soul to selling the wines they both love to make. They count on the expertise of their oenologist and friend Jean-Hugues Gros, a frenchman who has become more of a “douroman” than many “douromen”. Only in 1998 did Jorge Tenreiro buy lands where, along with his wife, he would build a magnificent house and start planting vines, especially of white grapes.

Until, in 2006, they started producing white wine with a little rosé.

In 2009, they also started making red wine. They bought old vines in the lower part of the village and now make reds that are already very popular.

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Up top, the vines of white grapes cover up the landscape.

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They mostly consist of Malvasia-Fina, with a little Rabigato and Viosinho. The more than 600 metres of altitude convey freshness and elegance; the schist-rich and poor grounds convey minerality. In the meantime, production evolved, and they began producing white Reserva wine every year; a red Selection and a red Reserva, and red Flor do Cume. The latter was only made for exporting. In the fabulous year that was 2011, they made a very special red, Grande Reserva; the only harvest until today, having produced a limited edition counting 1540 bottles and 90 magnum. Total production of Quinta do Cume currently amounts to about 40,000 bottles.

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Meanwhile, they built a cellar; small yet modern, big enough to cover their orders. What wasn’t big enough was the bottling section, which created serious “traffic jams” in the cellar, and is the reason why they are now building a warehouse for finished goods, bottling and labelling. The following project will be an amazing tasting room, which will grow amid the vineyard, and will rely on this couple’s proven good taste. They once again welcomed me with simplicity, to a lunch meal as simple as it was delicious.

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To open my appetite, a superb smoked salmon with droplets of lemon.

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Then, alheiras (Portuguese garlic sausage) from the village, toasty and crunchy, accompanied by fried egg, boiled potatoes, and sautéed cabbage, the latter two well covered in olive oil; lastly, a side of bread from the village baked in a wood-fired oven.

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For dessert, a delicious salad of peach from the quinta; no need for anything else.

We started off with Reserva white 2014, to compare with the 2013 – what a difference a year in the bottle makes. It was elegant, with scents of white fruits and mountain flowers; on the mouth, marked acidity, freshness, notes of citrus and some vanilla; all very soft and well matched. The 2014 is youthful, fruited, intense; it will be a great wine.

When we “attacked” the alheiras, we tasted Selection red 2013 and Reserva red 2012. Selection is a modern wine, showing a broad range of harmonised elements; soft, yet persistent, a lot of ripe fruit, refreshing and appetising; it’s food friendly.

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The red Reserva has more intense aromas, red fruits, notes of wood, smoke and spices. At the same time, it carries freshness and very good acidity; it’s velvety, very elegant.

We then skipped to Grande Reserva 2011, a serious red, concentrated, austere, with exotic aromas. On the mouth, it shows excellent volume, notes of dark fruits, a light touch of dark chocolate, beautiful acidity and a long-lasting finish. To store for a good few years. When the peach salad arrived, we went back to the white 2013, which was kept in ice in the meantime, and it made a perfect match.

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Down the hill, the village of Provesende remained peaceful…

Contacts
Quinta do Cume
5060-261 Provezende
Portugal
Tel: (+351) 91 445 7550
E-mail: quintadocume@netcabo.pt
Website: www.quintadocume.pt

Quinta de Lemos, a Life Project…

August 11, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

Celso de Lemos comes from Beira Alta province. When he was young, he moved to Belgium, where he earned a degree in Chemical Engineering. Throughout his life, he slowly built a worldwide emporium of high quality bedroom and bathroom linen. He was so successful, that his brand is now present all over the world, equipping luxury hotels, and houses belonging to renowned individuals in showbiz and sports. However, this successful Portuguese man never lost his simplicity and sense of humour, maintaining an approachable and easy-going character. He has also never lost the love for his homeland, right in the centre of Dão wine region.

Most obviously, Celso de Lemos purchased a piece of land 124 acres big in a little place called Passos de Silgueiros, not very far from Viseu.

With the help of his three children, he ordered the plantation of 62 acres of vines, and a huge olive grove, and he also developed a beehive; this way, he was able to produce three great products of that region: wine, olive oil and honey.

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He built a cellar, where besides top-of-the-range equipment, you can enjoy works of art out of his broad collection – another passion of his. Sometimes, he organises art exhibitions in the cellar, inviting artists from all over the world. But the biggest work of art in that cellar is wine from the Dão. Using the noblest varieties in the region – Touriga Nacional, Alfrocheiro, Jaen, and Tinta Roriz – he developed extraordinary wines, nowadays awarded all over the world, and exported to several countries.

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However, they can also be tasted in the cellar, and in the high-calibre restaurant he built right there on the property, Mesa de Lemos (“At the Lemos Table”), where chef Diogo Rocha, also a local, prepares amazing menus; for now, they are only available on fridays and saturdays, or upon booking.

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The restaurant is inside a little hotel of only three rooms, which is not yet open to the public, but where clients, importers and friends can stay and partake in this wonderful dream called Quinta de Lemos.

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For the last tasting, we had before us a few wines from the quinta, all revealing extremely high quality, and an excellent image – attractive and well kempt. Touriga Nacional 2009 appeared in a dark and very elegant garnet, with aromas of fruits of the forest, silky floral, slightly smoky, lightly minted, with very soft notes of resin. In the mouth, it has a huge structure, beautiful acidity, and some freshness, notes of ripe red fruits, a light vanilla-like taste, conveying great elegance, and a lasting and persisting finish. Another 2009 wine was Alfrocheiro, this one in an intense tone of ruby. The nose full of elegance, notes of red fruits, and a few wild flowers; very soft. In the mouth, it shows great volume, delicate notes of red fruits, it is soft and engaging, a beautiful combination of acidity and freshness, resulting in a silky elegant wine.

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Quinta de Lemos Touriga Nacional 2009 in celsodelemos.com

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Quinta de Lemos Alfrocheiro 2009 in celsodelemos.com

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Quinta de Lemos Jaen 2007 in celsodelemos.com

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Quinta de Lemos Donna Louise 2005 in celsodelemos.com

The Jaen variety is one of the best Dão, and if well prepared, it creates impressive wines, such as this Quinta de Lemos 2007. Of an intense, closed shade of garnet, it reveals an intense nose with many red fruits, a very ripe cherry, notes of vanilla, and a few spices. Powerful in the mouth, it reveals excellent volume, amazing acidity, red fruits, and some smoke, silky and elegant, with a long-lasting finish. Finally, and still in 2005, we tasted the Dona Louise, a red made with Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Jaen. Of an intense and elegant garnet, it presents a nose full of ripe red fruits, rock-rose, heather, and light notes of pine tree. It’s very silky in the mouth, has freshness and very balanced acidity, with light notes of red fruits; it’s velvety, slightly austere, with a long and delicate finish. A beautiful wine ending in a tasting that revealed all of Dão’s potential.

Contacts
Quinta de Lemos
Passos do Silgueiros
Silgueiros 3500-541, Portugal
Tel: (+351) 232 951 748
Fax: (+351) 232 951 495
E-mail: info@quintadelemos.com
Website: quintadelemos.com

Vinho Verde Wine Fest… A party like no other!

August 4, 2015 no comments in Uncategorized by José Silva

Text José Silva | Translation Jani Dunne

This year was the second edition of a festival that is here to stay. A few changes have been made since the first one happened in 2014, and the festival was moved to the outter East wing in Alfândega do Porto, thus gaining twice the space as well as a car park for exhibitors. This makes for more and wider eating areas, and an additional central square with a lot of tables and chairs.

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Besides the ever present Douro river, a landmark in a unique landscape, the weather also helped, even in the evenings, with very mild temperatures extending the enjoyable conversation while holding a glass of vinho verde.

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We had four very intense days with the 30 producers offering tastings of more than 200 wines; at the cocktail counter, they prepared very interesting suggestions, for example a cocktail mixing a verde red of the Vinhão variety, which turned out to be amazing.

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No wonder the queue was sometimes huge!! On top of it all, the five restaurants and the four small taverns there produced enough to cover every order, from sushi to suckling pig sandwiches, including traditional delicacies, original food, pregos (steak in a bun or on a plate), hamburgers and bifanas (pork-steak sandwich), presunto (Portuguese prosciutto), and even pão de ló (sponge cake). In the meantime, as soon as the doors opened, the commented tastings began. They were split into two rooms, always full, given the ever higher interest of a better and better informed audience. In fact, they also have the chance to try a few new things, presented and commented on by the oenologists themselves, which enables direct dialogues with the wine makers, who always have a lot to say.

Some tastings were commented by journalists specialised in this sector; this time, we were graced by the presence of two prestigious journalists from Revista de Vinhos: Nuno Garcia and the editor himself, Luís Lopes. On the other side of the exhibition site was a room where only cooking shows took place. They had as many as 20 shows in four days! I had the privilege of attending them all, and for each I suggested two wines which would harmonise with whatever the chefs produced.

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Something special happened here on the first day: the presence of Emilia Jackson, the celebrated chef who finished third in Masterchef Australia. She is a friendly Australian living in London, and was assisted by the lovely Joana, who also came in third, although in Masterchef Portugal. Of course the entire audience was there, and complained to the organisation about the lack of seats.

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To create an excellent environment, they played a very well-chosen selection of music, which was turned up in the evening to get our glasses twirling and a real party mood going, because that’s exactly what it was, the vinho verde party. RFM (Portuguese radio station) was always there, interviewing and giving out information, mostly live, and also getting many more people to the festival.

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People of all ages were there, but it was mostly interesting to see young people enjoy a lot of vinho verde, munching on nibbles and mostly having fun and bringing a touch of healthy youth to the festival.

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Also young was the big team producing the event, from Offe company; they were tireless, and brought skills and knowledge to the place, which makes all the difference. On Saturday, the longest day of the festival, it was already 3.30 am when the last visitors left the site…

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On the last day, Sunday, the car park was “invaded” by 120 old cars, creating a beautiful environment, which also attracted a lot of people. Doors closed at 8.00pm, but it was almost 10.00 when the party actually ended! I would like to congratulate Comissão dos Vinhos Verdes, their president, and the entire team of professionals who were there all the time, playing their part in the event.

The promise of next year’s edition was broadly advertised.

Vinho Verde Wine Fest 2015 was just so, a great party for vinho verde…

Posts Tagged : José Silva

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Vinho Verde Wine Fest… A party like no other!