«Quinta Wines»

Text Patrícia Pais Leite

Wines that have in the bottle the terms “Casa”, “Herdade”, “Paço”, “Palácio”, “Quinta” and “Solar”, commonly called «Quinta Wines» (Estate Wines), are subject to a special legal regime, which had the last change in August 2012.

Legend
DO: Designation of Origin
IG: Geographical Indication

Concept

The current term «Quinta Wines» (Estate Wines) refers to wines containing in the bottle terms that indicate a wine estate and that, therefore, comply with certain legal requirements.
The use of the name of an estate creates an image of prestige among consumers and generates added value because of the notion of authenticity in relation to the land where the wine is produced and the producer.
That is why it was created a particular legal regime that subjects these wines to control measures and supervision in order to prevent misuse of the mentions and to protect consumers against the risk of error or confusion.

The terms that indicate a wine estate are defined by Community law and they are the following in Portugal: “Casa”, “Herdade”, “Paço”, “Palácio”, “Quinta” and “Solar”.
These terms may only be used in wines with DO or GI and also for quality sparkling wines.
[To know more about the wines with DO and GI, see our previous article]

In addition, the wines must be made exclusively from grapes harvested in the wine estate and the holder of that estate should unequivocally take effective direction and sole responsibility for winemaking, for the wine produced and for the respective bottling .

Legal context

Until August 2012 it was the Decree No. 1084/2003 that set out specific rules for the use of the terms “Quinta” and “Herdade”, considered by law as the most frequently used to indicate a wine estate. The regime was similar to the current (displayed below), except with regard to the need to register the name of the wine estate in question as a trademark in the National Institute of Industrial Property, which was abolished in the new regime.

The other terms foreseen to designate a vineyard – “Casa”, “Paço”, “Palácio” and “Solar” – were subject to stricter usage rules with regard to the winemaking place, because they were considered terms normally associated to the asset values in question. In the earlier Community Law and also in Portaria No. 924/2004, these four terms could be used provided that wine were to come exclusively from grapes harvested in the wine estate vineyards and winemaking had been made there. At the time, this regime was more restrictive as to the place of winemaking than the regime of the terms “Quinta” and “Herdade”.

With the existing Community law in force since August 1, 2009, it was appropriate to establish in a single national diploma, Portaria No. 239/2012, the terms used to designate on the label the name of the wine estate and in order to increase the wine prestige to the consumer.

National regime

Who can use the words “Casa”, “Herdade”, “Paço”, “Palácio”, “Quinta” and “Solar”, i.e. who can produce «Quinta Wines »?
Any natural or legal person provided that is the owner of the wine estate or has a contractual relationship of use of the wine estate vineyards (e.g., renting, lending, etc.). It is the economic operator that holds the wine estate, who should be registered in a respective certifying body under a category of wine production and bottling activity (Vitivinicultor-Engarrafador – Wine Estate Producer-Bottler and Engarrafador – Bottler).
[To know more about this activity categories, see our previous article]

The law requires that the name of the wine estate is in the description of the land register. The vineyards in question and winemaking facilities should also be registered in the respective certifying body and the grapes and wine should be reported in the harvest and production statement of economic operator who is the wine estate holder.

In addition, «Quinta Wines» are subject to a specific current account, in records of the wine estate holder and in the certifying body. Finally, the economic operators who have «Quinta Wines» in July 31 of each year should include them in their stock declaration.

Concerning the vinification and bottling, these operations can be performed in third parties facilities, provided that the wine estate holder unequivocally assume the effective direction and sole responsibility for winemaking, for the wine produced and for the respective bottling.

The economic operator holder of the wine estate who makes his «Quinta Wines» in third party facilities must also communicate to the competent certifying body, at least 48 hours in advance, the date and the place for bottling. In labeling this economic operator must identify himself through the expression «engarrafado para …» (bottled for … ) or, if he also identifies the provider of bottling services, through the expression «engarrafado para … por …» (bottled for … by …).

Portuguese DO e GI

Text Patrícia Leite 

Portuguese wines have 31 Designations of Origin (DO) and 14 Geographical Indications (GI). To know this vast and unique collective heritage, we could begin by identifying these DO and GI and the entities that certify them. Before that, we review the concepts of DO and GI and of Certifying Body.

Legend
DO: Designation of Origin;
GI: Geographical Indication;
CB: Certifying Body;
Wine products: still wines, sparkling wines, semi-sparkling wines, liqueur wines, wine vinegars, wine spirits and grape marc spirits;
Wine products certification: validation process of the product conformity with the DO´s or GI´s requirements defined by the Certifying Body, which is pointed out, in the case of the bottled products, through the guarentee seal placed in the bottle.

Designation of Origin (DO) and Geographical Indication (GI)

In the wine sector, a DO is the geographic name of a region (or a traditional name, associated with a geographical origin or not), used to identify a wine product:

– whose quality or characteristics are essentially or exclusively due to a particular geographical environment with its inherent natural (e.g: climate, soil, grape varieties) and human factors (e.g: vinification techniques);
– originated from grapes exclusively from that region;
– and whose production occurs within that region.

The concept of GI differs from the concept of DO essentially in the following aspects:

– the quality, reputation, or other characteristics of the product are attributable to that geographical origin, but the human factors are not so relevant as in the DO;
– at least 85% of the grapes used come exclusively from that region, but not all the grapes, as in the DO.

In both concepts, the production shall occur within the delimited geographical area and “production” covers all the operations involved, from the harvesting of the grapes to the completion of the wine-making process, with the exception of any post-production processes.

In practical terms, a wine with DO is obtained exclusively from grapes of the demarcated region, but a wine with GI can be produced up to 15% with grapes from another origin than the GI geographical area.

Moreover, to be certified with DO wines must meet tighter requirements, namely concerning alcohol strength, grape varieties used, vinification methods, oenological practices, organoleptic characteristics (colour, clearness, aroma and flavour), among others.

About this matter, see also our previous article

The Certifying Bodies

In 2004 was created in the Portuguese wine sector the figure of Certifying Bodies (CB) to monitor the production and trade and to certify wine products with DO and/or GI.

A CB and the respective laboratory should be accredited by the Portuguese Institute for Accreditation (IPAC – Instituto Português de Acreditação) for the control and certification of wine products entitled to DO or GI (rule NP EN 45011) and for the physical-chemical tests involved in control and certification (rule NP EN ISO/IEC 17025).

Therefore, the existing entities in the sector, i.e. the Regional Wine Commissions, the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto, I. P. – the Douro and Port Wines Institute – and the Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, I.P. – Institute of Wine, Embroidery and Handicraft of Madeira, had to apply the designation of EC to continue to certify the respective DO and / or IG.

Nine out of the fourteen entities in the sector are already accredited by IPAC and the remaining accreditation processes are underway, as reported by the IVV – Institute of Vine and Wine, IP in August 31, 2013 (See pdf)

About this matter, see also our previous article

Who certifies what?

In the table below, we indicate the existing DO and GI in Portugal and the respective CB. To each Demarcated Region corresponds a number of location on the map obtained at www.viniportugal.pt, which we reproduce here.

Contacts
Regional Wine Commissions and other Certifying Bodies
Instituto da Vinha e Do Vinho I.P.

«Lisboa» has changed!

Text Patrícia Leite 

Over the past 21 years since the creation of the Geographical Indication in the wine region of Lisbon and after several changes in the rules of production and trade, now come new changes to this region. Soon we will see in the market new categories of wine products with the designation GI «Lisboa», susch as semi-sparkling wines, wine vinegars and spirits.

The New Regime of GI «Lisboa»

On 26 June, the new regime for the production and trade of wines and other wine products of the Geographical Indication (GI) «Lisboa» entered into force, pursuant to the publication of Portaria (Ministerial Order) No. 130/2014 on the day before.

This law repeals the previous regime in force since 2009 and establishes new rules, under current EU law on the common organization of the markets in agricultural products, the so-called Single CMO, maintaining the quality and the traditional practices that characterize the wine products of the region and recognizing its importance and the economic value that they generate.

The main amendments to GI «Lisboa» are as follows:
– Definition of maximum yield per hectare of the vineyards for the production of wines and wine products entitled to GI «Lisboa» on 200 hl;
– Inclusion of new categories of wine products entitled to the use of GI «Lisboa», namely: quality sparkling wine, semi-sparkling wine, aerated semi-sparkling wine, wine vinegar, wine spirit and grape marc spirit;
– Updating of the grape varieties suitable for the production of wine and its nomenclature, due to the amendments introduced through the list of grape varieties for the production of wine in Portugal, published in 2012.

In this new regime, GI «Lisboa» can be used to identify the following wine categories: still wine (already provided in the previous regime), liqueur wine (already provided in the previous regime), sparkling wine (already provided in the previous scheme), quality sparkling wine (new category), semi-sparkling wine (new category) and aerated semi-sparkling wine (new category).

[To know more about the different wine categories, please see our previous article about it]

In addition to the wines, GI «Lisboa» will identify the following wine products: Wine vinegar, Wine spirit and Grape marc spirit.

As for any other GI, this new regime also provides for GI «Lisboa» other rules concerning the production and trade, in particular on the following topics:
– Definition of the geographical area of production and sub-regions (Estremadura and Alta-Estremadura);
– Soils, grape varieties and cultural practices;
– Registration and characterization of vineyards and yield per hectare;
– Vinification and oenological practices;
– The characteristics of the products;
– Registration of economic operators;
– Labelling and trade;
– Circulation and accompanying documents;
– Control and certification.

You may see all the rules in detail in the legal diploma.

From «Estremadura» to «Lisboa»

It was in 1993, with the Portaria (Ministerial Order) No. 351/93, that was created the GI for the region of Lisbon, at that time called the «Estremadura», which was designed to still wines, called «Vinho Regional Estremadura».

The GI geographical area of production covered the same counties that now covers, namely:
– The district of Lisbon, with the exception of the city of Azambuja;
– From Leiria district, the municipalities of Alcobaça, Batalha, Bombarral, Caldas da Rainha, Leiria, Marinha Grande, Nazaré, Óbidos, Peniche, Pombal (except the parishes of Abiul, Pelariga, Redinha and Vila Cã) and Porto de Mós;
– The District of Santarém, the municipality of Ourém.

In 2000, the use of the earlier GI «Estremadura» was extended to liqueur wine (Portaria No. 244/2000) and, in 2003, there was a change in the regime on the alcoholic strength of grape must for winemaking (Portaria No. 1066 / 2003).

The GI of Lisbon region was renamed «Lisboa» in 2009 as it was concluded that this place name should have positive effects on the wines dissemination and trade, namely on foreign markets, by its notoriety, easier readability and best geographical reference (Portaria No. 426/2009, later amended by Portaria No. 1393/2009). Along with the new name, the GI also began to have two sub-regions – Estremadura and Alta-Estremadura- and to be used in the sparkling wine category.

Other Certified Products

In addition to the certification as GI «Lisboa», the wine products of this region may as well be certified as products of one of the 9 Designations of Origin (DO): «Alenquer», «Arruda», «Bucelas», «Carcavelos», «Colares», «Encostas d’Aire», «Lourinhã», «Óbidos» and «Torres Vedras».

Note that the geographic areas of production of GI «Lisboa» and of the DO of the region are different, each one corresponding to a specific territorial boundary, as we can see on the map below.

[To know more about the concept and differences between DO and GI, please see our previous article about it]

It is the Regional Wine Commission of Lisbon, Comissão Vitivinícola da Região de Lisboa (CVRLx) that controls the production and trade and certifies the wine products entitled to DO «Alenquer», «Arruda», «Bucelas», «Carcavelos», «Colares», «Encostas d’Aire», «Lourinhã», «Óbidos» and «Torres Vedras» and to GI «Lisboa».

This Wine Commission was designated as Certifying Body in 2008, by Portaria (Ministerial Order) No. 739/2008, under the institutional reorganization process of the Portuguese wine sector that began in 2006.

[To know more about the history of the Wine Sector in Portugal and the CVRLx role as Certifying Body, please see our previous article about it]

Contacts
Comissão Vitivinícola da Região de Lisboa
Rua Cândido dos Reis – Apartado 145
2560-312 Torres Vedras
Tel.: 261 316 724
Fax: 261 313 541
Email: cvr.lisboa@mail.telepac.pt
Site: www.vinhosdelisboa.com

Designation of Origin and Geographical Indication

Text Patrícia Pais Leite 

What is the meaning of “DOC”, that we see so many times on the bottles of Portuguese wines? Is it the same as “Denominação de Origem” (Portuguese term for “Designation of Origin”)? And what is the meaning of “Vinho Regional” (Regional Wine)? Why are there also other wines that are neither “DOC” nor “Vinho Regional”? These are questions that we intend to explain here.

Legend
DO: Designation of Origin;
GI: Geographical Indication;
Wine products: still wines, sparkling wines, semi-sparkling wines, liqueur wines, wine vinegars, wine spirits and grape marc spirits;
Wine products certification: validation process of the product conformity with the DO´s or GI´s requirements defined by the Certifying Body, which is pointed out, in the case of the bottled products, through the guarentee seal placed in the bottle.

The Concepts

 “Queijo Serra da Estrela” (Serra da Estrela Cheese), “Carne Barrosã” (Barrosã Meat), “Mel dos Açores” (Azores Honey), “Azeite de Moura” (Moura Olive Oil), “Pêra Rocha do Oeste” (Pear from the West) and also “Ovos-moles de Aveiro” (Sweet Eggs from Aveiro), are names we are familiar with and which we associate with quality products, certified and having a certain geographical origin. These are products registered in the European Union as agricultural products or foodstuff with Protected Designation of Origin or Protected Geographical Indication.

And in the wine sector we are all familiar with names such as “Alentejo”, “Douro”, “Vinho Verde”, “Trás-Os-Montes”, “Dão”, “Bairrada”, “Ribatejo”, among others.

In fact, it was in the wine sector that was born the first protection system of a Designation of Origin, in 1756, with the creation of the Douro Demarcated Region. Currently, due to the European laws in force, the concept of quality wines is based namely on the specific characteristics attributable to its geographical origin. Such wines are identified in the market via Designations of Origin (DO) or Geographical Indications (GI).

In the wine sector, a DO is the geographic name of a region (or a traditional name, associated with a geographical origin or not), used to identify a wine product:

– whose quality or characteristics are essentially or exclusively due to a particular geographical environment with its inherent natural (e.g: climate, soil, grape varieties) and human factors (e.g: vinification techniques);
– originated from grapes exclusively from that region;
– and whose production occurs within that region.
The production area of a DO is the respective Demarcated Region.

The concept of GI differs from the concept of DO essentially in the following aspects:
– the quality, reputation, or other characteristics of the product are attributable to that geographical origin, but the human factors are not so relevant as in the DO;
– at least 85% of the grapes used come exclusively from that region, but not all the grapes, as in the DO.
Note that the production shall also occur within the delimited geographical area.

In addition to the conceptual distinctions, the DO also differs from the GI due to a higher demand at the level of the certification requirements of the products, in particular the alcoholic strength, grape varieties used, vinification methods, oenological practices, organoleptic characteristics, among others, are concerned.

In fact, the use of each DO is subjected to compliance with specific rules of production and trade, part of a specific regulation, which disciplines the delimitation of the region of origin, the nature of the soil, the grape varieties apt for production, the cultural practices and guiding system, the yields per hectare, the vinification processes, the oenological practices, the alcohol strength, the physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics, the specific labelling rules (where necessary).

For the use of each IG, there is also a specific production and trade regulation, but it should only define, at least, the delimitation of the region of origin, the grape varieties and the specific rules of production and presentation, designation and labelling, whenever necessary.

The Official Designations

Until August 2009, the designations of wines with DO were several and somewhat imperceptible to the consumer. We could find on the labels “Quality Wine PSR” (Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region), “Quality Sparkling Wine PSR” (Quality Sparkling Wine Produced in a Specific Region), “Quality Semi-Sparkling PSR” (Quality Semi-Sparkling Wine Produced in a Specific Region) and “Quality Liqueur Wine PSR” (Quality Liqueur Wine Produced in a Specific Region). Each of these designations matched the respective wine category: Still Wine, Sparkling Wine, Semi-Sparkling Wine and Liqueur Wine.

With the current European classification in force since 1st August 2009, a wine that fulfils the requirements of a DO is simply called a “Wine with DO”, regardless of its category.
In turn, a wine that fulfills the requirements of a GI is called “Wine with Geographical Indication”, whereas before it was called a “Table Wine with Geographical Indication”.

In terms of categories, both a “Wine with DO” and a “Wine with GI” can be a still wine, a sparkling wine, a semi-sparkling wine or a liqueur wine (About this matter, see our last article).

On the labelling of Portuguese “Wines with DO”, the terms used are “Denominação de Origem Controlada” / “DOC” or “Denominação de Origem Protegida” (Portuguese terms for “Protected Designation of Origin”).
For Portuguese “Wines with GI”, it can be used the term “Vinho Regional” or “Vinho da Região de” or “Indicação Geográfica Protegida” (Portuguese terms for “Protected Geographical Indication”). It should be pointed out that “Vinho Regional” is not associated with a DO but with a GI.

And the wines that are neither “DOC” or “Vinho Regional”? They are classified as “Wines without DO and without GI”, also called simply “Wines”. They correspond to the previous “Table Wines”.

DO and GI Protection

By ensuring the genuine character and quality of the products, DO and IG also allow the protection of consumers and producers, the correct operation of the wine market and the promotion of quality products. For these reasons, DO and IG benefit from protection against any commercial use that affects them (misuse, imitation or evocation) or that unduly exploits its reputation.

The protection of each DO or IG and the respective control and certification process are the responsibility of the corresponding Certifying Body (Regional Wine Commissions, Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto, I. P. – the Douro and Port Wines Institute – and Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, I.P. – Institute of Wine, Embroidery and Handicraft of Madeira).

We can check that a bottled wine is certified as “Wine with DO or GI” through the guarentee seal placed in the bottle.

Types and Categories of Wines

Text Patrícia Leite 

We can find on the market wines of different types, which may have the same brand and even a similar presentation: Wines with DO, Wines with GI and Wines without a defined geographical origin. In each of these wine types, we can also find different categories: Liqueur, Semi-Sparkling, Sparkling and Still wines.
To understand the wine language and be able to choose on an informed basis, it is essential to know the types and categories of wines and the differences between them.

Legend
DO: Designation of Origin;
GI: Geographical Indication;
Demarcated Region: a winegrowing area that produces wine products with particular quality characteristics and whose name is used to designate a DO;
Bar: unit of pressure used in wines to measure the excess pressure due to carbon dioxide.

Legal classification of wines

Concerning the types of wine, the European law classifies wines since 2009 as “Wines with Designation of Origin (DO)”, “Wines with Geographical Indication (GI)” and “Wines without DO and without GI”.

“Wines with DO” are produced in a Demarcated Region and comply with the requirements of the corresponding DO, namely concerning alcohol strength, grape varieties used, vinification methods, oenological practices, organoleptic characteristics (colour, clearness, aroma and flavour), among others.
Before 2009 the “Wines with DO” were classified as “VQPRD” (Quality Wines Produced in a Specific Region), “VEQPRD” (Quality Sparkling Wines Produced in a Specific Region), “VFQPRD” (Quality Semi-sparkling Wines Produced in a Specific Region) or “VLQPRD” (Quality Liqueur Wines Produced in a Specific Region).

“Wines with GI”, usually called in Portugal “Vinhos Regionais” (Regional Wines), come from a certain area of production and comply with the requirements of the corresponding GI.
Before 2009 the “Wines with GI” were classified as “Tables Wine with GI”.

Finally, “Wines without DO and without GI”, also called simply “Wines”, do not have a specific geographical origin and were classified before 2009 as “Table Wines”.

EU legislation also defines the categories of wines. These categories are also defined in the first part of the “International Code of Oenological Practices“, created by OIV – International Organization of Vine and Wine (OIV), an intergovernmental organisation of a scientific and technical nature, which works as a body of reference in the wine sector. This code constitutes technical and legal reference aiming to normalization of products of vitivinicultural sector and must be used as basis in establishment of national or supra-national regulations and should be imposed in international trade issues.
The main categories are the following: Still Wine, Sparkling Wine, Semi-Sparkling Wine and Liqueur Wine. These categories can exist in “Wines with DO”, in “Wines with GI” and also in “Wines without DO and without GI”. For each type and category, the wine can be White, Red or Rosé.

In addition to these terms, we can also find on the Portuguese labels the following terms, among others:
– “Vinho branco de uvas tintas” (White wine from red grapes), when it is still and sparkling wines produced exclusively with red grapes;
– “Clarete”, if it is a light coloured red wine with an alcoholic strength of not exceeding 2,5 % volume the minimum limit set by law for the category or for the DO/GI;
– “Palhete” or “Palheto”, when it is a red wine, produced using the partial fermentation on skins of red grapes or the combined fermentation on skins of red and white grapes, with the amount of white grapes being limited to 15% of the total.

And on the labelling of Portuguese wines with DO or GI there are also others terms, called traditional terms, such as “Colheita Seleccionada”, “Escolha”, “Superior”, “Reserva”, “Garrafeira”, “Colheita Tardia”. We will address these designations in a later article.

Categories definition

The categories previously mentioned are defined on the EU rules according to the respective technical characteristics.

Still Wine is the product obtained exclusively from alcoholic fermentation; has an alcoholic strength of 8,5 % volume or 9% volume, depending on the wine-growing zone, to 15 % volume; if it is a “Wine with DO” or “Wine with GI” the alcoholic strength is between 4,5 % volume and 15 % volume; the upper limit for the total alcoholic strength may reach up to 20 % volume for wines which have been produced without any enrichment from certain wine-growing areas specifically defined and may exceed 15 % volume for wines with DO which have been produced without enrichment; has an excess pressure, due to carbon dioxide, of not more than 1 bar.

In current language, we can say that are still wines those “without gas” and also the wines “with some gas”, such as DO Vinho Verde wines.

Sparkling Wine is the product obtained by first or second alcoholic fermentation and for which the alcoholic strength of the cuvées intended for their preparation shall not be less than 8,5 % volume; has an excess pressure, due to carbon dioxide, of not less than 3 bar and releases carbon dioxide derived exclusively from fermentation.

In turn, Quality Sparkling Wine differs from the Sparkling Wine category in regard to the minimum alcoholic strength, which is 9 % volume, and to the excess pressure, due to carbon dioxide, which is 3,5 bar.

In current language, we can say that a sparkling wine is a wine “with a lot of gas”.

As examples of Sparkling Wines with DO, there are the “Champagne” (France), the “Cava” (Spain), the “Bairrada” or the “Dão” (Portugal) sparkling wines. Therefore, we should only call “Champagne” to a sparkling wine which comes, in fact, from that Demarcated Region or DO.

There are another two categories of Sparkling Wine – Aerated Sparkling Wine and Quality Aromatic Sparkling Wine:
– The first one is obtained from “Wine without DO and without GI”, has an excess pressure, due to carbon dioxide, of not less than 3 bar and releases carbon dioxide derived wholly or partially from an addition of that gas;
– The other one is a quality sparkling wine which is obtained from specific wine grape varieties, has an excess pressure, due to carbon dioxide, of not less than 3 bar and which the alcoholic strength may not be less than 6 % volume.

Semi-Sparkling Wine is, in general terms, the product which is obtained from wine; has an alcoholic strength of not less than 7 % volume and has an excess pressure, due to endogenous carbon dioxide, of not less than 1 bar and not more than 2,5 bar.
In current language, we can say that a Semi-Sparkling Wine has “more gas” than a Still Wine and “less gas” than a Sparkling Wine/Quality Sparkling Wine.

There is also the Aerated Semi-Sparkling Wine, which differs from the first one in regard to excess pressure due to wholly or partially added carbon dioxide.

Finally, Liqueur Wine is, in general terms, the product obtained from grape must in fermentation, wine or a combination of the above products and has an alcoholic strength of not less than 15 % volume and not more than 22 % volume; has the addition, individually or in combination, of neutral alcohol of vine origin and wine or dried grape distillate; if it is “Wine with DO” or “Wine with GI”, the added products may be, instead of the listed above, wine alcohol or dried grape alcohol, spirits distilled from wine or from grape marc and/or spirits distilled from dried grapes.

As examples of Portuguese Liqueur Wine with DO, there are “Porto” and “Madeira” wines.

Note that sometimes Still, Sparkling and Semi-sparkling Wines are generally called “Tables Wines” in the international trade, in opposition to the Liqueur Wines, also generically called “Fortified Wines”.

 

The Wine Activities in Portugal

Text Patrícia Leite 

We often associate a wine company to a producing unit that has a wine estate with vineyards and a winery. Even though this is true for most cases, the fact is that the company we see identified on a bottle can be the company that produces the wine, but not the grapes, or it may even just have bottled the wine.

Main Categories

Several economic activities can be performed in the Portuguese wine sector, such as producing, bottling or buying/selling wine, in bulk or bottled. It is the Portuguese law, through Decree-Law no. 178/99, of 21st May, which defines the categories of economic operators in accordance with those activities and determines the mandatory character of the respective registration in the Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho, I.P. (IVV). This regime does not apply to the operators that are exclusively devoted to the production or trade of Port Wine or to the Autonomous Regions of Azores and Madeira.

Decreto-Lei nº178/99

The main categories of economic operators listed in the national law are the following: Engarrafador (Bottler), Armazenista (Wholesaler), Produtor (Producer), Vitivinicultor (Wine Estate Producer) and Vitivinicultor-Engarrafador (Wine Estate Producer-Bottler).

The activity of an Engarrafador (Bottler) is to conduct or order the bottling in a service rendering regime, assuming itself as the sole responsible for the product.

An Armazenista (Wholesaler) conducts wholesale trade (purchase/sale) of wine, in bulk or bottled.

A Produtor (Producer) produces wine from grapes of its own wine estate or from grapes purchased elsewhere. It is included in this category the activity conducted by the wine cooperatives, which produce wine from grapes they receive from their members.

The category of Vitivinicultor (Wine Estate Producer) also corresponds to wine production but only from grapes exclusively grown in the wine estate of the economic operator, thus not being allowed to buy grapes.

In turn, a Vitivinicultor-Engarrafador (Wine Estate Producer-Bottler) practices this last activity and also bottles the wine it produces in its own facilities or in the facilities of another economic operator, in a service rendering agreement. As Engarrafador (Bottler), it is also the sole responsible for the product.

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Accumulation of categories

Economic operators should be registered at the IVV in the several categories corresponding to the activities they wish to conduct, being exempt from registration the Wine Estate Producers and Producers with a production volume inferior to 4000 litres of wine per year.

This means that the categories can be accumulated, except when there are incompatibilities due to the nature of the category itself:
a) it is not possible to conduct the activity of Wine Estate Producer or Wine Estate Producer-Bottler with the activities of Wholesaler and Producer;
b) it is also not possible to accumulate the category of Wine Estate Producer-Bottler with the categories of Wine Estate Producer or Bottler.

Since the Bottler is the sole responsible for the product, it is up to this economic operator to request the certification of the wine to the respective certifying bodies. On the other hand, the category of Bottler is many times conducted cumulatively with the categories of Wholesaler and/or Producer, which can frequently be seen in economic operators of greater dimension.
It should be pointed out that one cannot be a Bottler and a Wine Estate Producer-Bottler at the same time, since the latter can only bottle the wine it produces.

Image courtesy of Keerati | FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Other categories

There are five other categories, which are more specific regarding the activity or the product: Destilador (Distiller), Fabricante de Vinagre de Vinho (Wine Vinegar Producer), Preparador (Preparation Operator), Exportador/Importador (Exporter/Importer) and Retalhista (Retailer).

Whereas the categories of Distiller and Wine Vinegar Producer describe the specific activity in the name itself, the category of Preparador (Preparation Operator) refers the operator that obtains products ready to be consumed, from wine, wine derivatives and winemaking sub-products (such as Sparkling Wine).

In turn, an operator can be registered as an Exporter/Importer if it wishes to buy or sell directly to third countries wine products in bulk or bottled.

The category of Retailer is foreseen to conduct the direct sale to the consumer of packaged or pre-packaged wine products, but the law has exempted these economic operators from registration in the IVV.

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And the grape producers, the Viticultores?
Decree-Law no. 178/99 does not foresee the exclusive production of grapes as an economic category, including this activity in the wine production conducted by Wine Estate Producers and Wine Estate Producers-Bottlers and by Producers regarding wine produced from the their own grapes. To be part of the wine economic circuit, the grapes produced by Viticultores are sold or provided to Producers, the only economic operators (natural persons, companies or cooperatives) that can buy grapes to produce wine.

Mandatory category on the bottle

In accordance with the European and Portuguese rules, it is mandatory the reference on the wine labeling to the name and address of the Bottler, preceded by the term «engarrafador» (bottler) or «engarrafado por» (bottled by) or, in the case of Sparkling Wine, «preparador» (preparation operator) or «preparado por» (prepared by).

However, appearing on the label the identification of an entity that takes part in the wine commercial circuit in addition to the Bottler, this operator name may be replaced by a code (number attributed by the IVV), preceded by the term «Eng. No.».

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Therefore, if the bottle only includes the identification of the operator which bottled the wine, we will only know who produced it if there are included other indications that provide us with that information. Let’s look at the case of an economic operator registered as a Wholesaler, Producer and Bottler:
a) it can have purchased and bottled a certain wine, acting for that product as a Wholesaler and Bottler;
b) it can be the Producer of another wine, with grapes from its own estate, and the respective Bottler;
c) and it can also produce a third wine, with purchased grapes, and bottle it.

The truth is that the category which provides in itself more information on the bottle is the Vitivinicultor-Engarrafador (Wine Estate Producer-Bottler): it lets us know that who bottled the wine was the one that produced the grapes and the wine.

The Wine Sector in Portugal

Text Patrícia Leite 

To better understand the Portuguese wine, it matters to know the wine sector: how it was born, how it is organized, what is the role of the Certifying Bodies (Regional Wine Commissions and others entities) and also the Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho, I.P. (Vine and Wine Institute).

A bit of History

The cultivation of vines in Portugal is ancestral. It would appear that it was born with the Tartessos, in 2000 BC, the people who have cultivated vineyards for the first time in the Iberian Peninsula.

After the birth of Portugal as a country, in 1143, and after the Muslim eviction, monarchs donated lands on condition of cultivating vines in order to establish communities.

Arcos de Valdevez | © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

The particularly favorable conditions of soil and climate and the predominance in some regions of some grape varieties of typical characteristics made viticulture gain gradual economic relevance and boosted the importance of wine as a source of income.

For that reason, diverse wine regions had been structured in Portugal to allow proper regulation of the production and trade of quality wines. This groundbreaking work of structuring the sector began, first, in 1756 with the demarcation of the wine production region in the Douro, which would be one of the first demarcated regions of the world.

The portrait of Marquis of Pombal by Louis-Michel Van Loo

In fact, the XVIII century was marked by the viticulture growth in Portugal. A major contribution to this was the Treaty of Methuen in 1703, by which England gave special treatment to imported Portuguese wine, which prompted many farmers to begin the use of their lands for the production of wine.

Later, in 1907, about the time of John Franco dictatorship, the logic of demarcation of wine-producing regions was taken up and began the global regulation of the wine sector: it were redefined the boundaries of the demarcated Douro region and it were then marked and regulated other wine-growing regions (Vinho Verde, Dão, Colares, Carcavelos, Bucelas, Moscatel de Setúbal, and Madeira). Only in 1979 and 1980 were demarcated regions of Bairrada and Algarve.

Law of 18th September 1908 | Source: www.vinhoverde.pt

In this process of creating the wine sector, it was constituted for each region a Regional Wine Commission (RWC), of associative nature with public functions to regulate production and trade of wine products. Initially, the RWC were subject to strong state intervention, which led to a progressive loss of autonomy of these entities from the 30s and to some confusion as to their legal status.

Indeed, under the economic plan of corporate organization, the authoritarian political regime called Estado Novo (New State), established in 1926, applied strong interventionist policies in the wine sector because it represented a vital source of foreign exchange and labor market for many thousands of people.

Wine Regions | Source: www.winesofportugal.info

It was then created in 1937 the Junta Nacional do Vinho (National Wine Board), a body of economic coordination functions with performance on production and trade of wine products (promotion of wine consumption in the country, controlling supply, price stabilization and storage of surplus production).

Then, in the 50s and 60s, it was created a wine cooperatives network to respond to market problems in terms of volume of production and unsold production storage (only wine cooperatives could buy the grapes to producers and make the wine, whereby private companies could only buy wine already produced).

Ervedosa do Douro | © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

In the 80s, the organization of the Portuguese wine sector has undergone a major change, as a result of the pre-accession measures to the European Economic Community, which took place in 1986, and to fully comply with the rules of the European agricultural policy.

Having a policy based on quality wines production, European legislation has required at the time the creation of the concept of “Denominação de Origem Controlada” – “DOC” (Protected Designation of Origin) and the qualitative classification of wines through the categories “VQPRD” (Quality Wine Produced in a Specific Region), “Vinho Regional” (Regional Wine) and “Vinho de Mesa” (Table Wine).
Note that this logic has been revised and we will discuss this topic n a subsequent article.

© Blend All About Wine, Lda.

In 1985 a review of the regime of the sector was carried out by the law of the demarcated wine regions (Law no.8/85, of 4th June), that established the self-regulation of the professional interests represented in the RWC, remaining in force in the sector for nearly 20 years.

This review involved a clarification of the nature of these entities according to the new constitutional principles concerning the Right to Freedom of Association, recognizing the RWC as inter-professional associations, ruled by private law. This nature was, however, combined with the presence of a State representative in its deciding body, the General Council.

Douro | Souce: www.winesofportugal.info

It was also created in 1986 the Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho, I.P. (IVV – Vine and Wine Institute), which replaced Junta Nacional do Vinho (National Wine Board), aiming to adjust the organization of the sector to the principles and rules of the Community law given Portugal’s recent accession to the European Economic Community.

Almost two decades later, in 2004 a deep institutional reform took place, through Decree-Law no. 212/2004, of 23rd August, in institutional and regulatory terms, according to the European law recent review. This Portuguese law regulate Designations of Origin (DO) and Geographical Indications (GI) used in the wine sector products, on its recognition, protection, control and certification

Decree-Law no. 212/2014

Guided by experience, by the evolution of the sector and by the recognition of the RWC’s capability for self-management of the professional interests, this reform established a new model of interaction between the RWC and the State. The figure of Certifying Bodies (CB) is created and the rules of their nature and organizational structure are defined, suppressing the representation of the State in the General Council and reinforcing competences of control and certification.

The Certifying Bodies (CB)

A CB is a private association, of inter-professional character, recognized by the Minister of Agriculture to monitor the production and trade and to certify wine products entitled to the respective Designation of Origin (DO) and/or Geographical Indication (GI).

Dão | Source: www.winesofportugal.info

In accordance with European laws, a CB should be accredited by the Portuguese Institute for Accreditation (IPAC), under NP EN 45011 regulation for the control and certification of wine products entitled to DO or GI. The respective laboratory should also be accredited by the IPAC, under NP EN ISO/IEC 17025 regulation for the physical-chemical tests involved in control and certification.

Thus, the Regional Wine Commissions (RWC) or other entities can be designated as CB, as long as they meet the conditions and requirements of organizational character and technical nature concerning the principles of objectivity, impartiality and independence.

 

Provesende | © Blend All About Wine, Lda.

In the case of the Douro Demarcated Region and the Autonomous Region of Madeira, the CB´s role is played by public institutes (Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e do Porto, I. P. – the Douro and Port Wines Institute – and the Instituto do Vinho, do Bordado e do Artesanato da Madeira, I.P. – Institute of Wine, Embroidery and Craftwork of Madeira) and not by private associations such as RWC.

The CB´s main competences are to promote and defend the respective DO and/or GI, to carry out the control and certification of the products with that DO and/or GI, to promote the products they certify, to classify the vine parcels as apt for production and to control the stocks, the production, circulation and trade of grapes and wine products.

Bairrada | Source: www.winesofportugal.info

Regarding the organic structure, the EC have the following bodies:
– the General Council – deliberative body that gathers representatives of the Production and the Trade of certified products;
– the Board – executive body composed of a chairman and two other members, one appointed by the Production and other by the Trade;
– and Audit Committee – composed of a chairman and two members – or the Auditor, with supervisory powers.

The IVV’s (Vine and Wine Institute) role

The IVV is the body responsible for the wine sector, a public institute under the purview of the Ministry of Agriculture.

With the sector reform in 2004, the role of the IVV was redefined, focusing now its actions on the coordination and control of the sector institutional organization, on the audit of the quality certification system, on the CB’s supervision and audit, also taking part in the coordination and supervision of the promotion of the wine products. As the national contact Entity with the European Union, the IVV carries out the follow-up of the European policy and the preparation of the rules for its enforcement.

Headquarters of the Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho, I.P
Source: www.facebook.com/IVV.PAGINA.OFICIAL

Generally speaking, this is how our wine sector works. The CB´s work is to defend, certify and control products with DO and/or GI and the IVV coordinates and controls the sector.

Legend:

Wine products: wines, sparkling wines, semi-sparkling wines, liqueur wines, wine vinegars, wine spirits and grape marc spirits;
Wine Products Certification: validation process of the product conformity with the DO´s or IG´s requirements defined by the EC, which is pointed out, in the case of the bottled products, through the guarentee seal placed in the bottle.

Contacts

Regional Wine Commissions and other Certifying Bodies
www.ivv.min-agricultura.pt/np4/np4/212.html

Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho, I.P.
www.ivv.min-agricultura.pt

Morgadio da Calçada – (In) The Wine History

Text Patrícia Leite 

The village of Provesende, set in the heart of the Alto Douro Wine Region, UNESCO world heritage site, is by nature linked to the history of wine. It is located in the county of Sabrosa, land of noble families who thrived on power and influence in the XVIII century with the production and commerce of wine. It is said that the idea of the creation of the Douro Region, implemented by the Marquis of Pombal in 1756, was born in this county.

Besides having a major role in the creation of Douro Valley culture and landscape, Provesende has an unusual heritage density, including several manors and a Pillory of 1578. At this Vineyard Village we find one of 13 manors of the XVII century, the house Casa da Calçada, which was classified as a Public Interest Realty in 2009. This house shelters the wine tourism project Morgadio da Calçada since January 2013.

Fonte:www.morgadiodacalcada.com

The manorial building and the chapel are complemented by the agricultural outbuildings, forming a courtyard with a gateway. This realty set is the type “noble house in the countryside” and an emblematic space of the Douro region. Casa da Calçada has also been recognized by its historical role (and the role of related personalities) in the construction of Douro’s culture and landscape. This “journey to the past” is a distinctive characteristic of the Morgadio da Calçada project.

For its excellence, the Great Wine Capitals (a global network of ten internationally well-known wine regions) granted to this wine tourism unit the Best of Wine Tourism Award 2014 in the category Architecture and Landscapes. Morgadio da Calçada is one of 5 projects considered the best of the Portuguese wine tourism.

The unit has 8 rooms located in the old stables and agricultural warehouses, which were recovered in a contemporary way with Portuguese materials and objects of the best quality, offering all the comfort and privacy with the charm of old rural buildings.

Fonte:www.morgadiodacalcada.com

The old kitchen of the farm workers was transformed into a cozy living room, where we can spend the winter evenings by the fireplace and enjoy the fresh breeze of summer from the courtyard. From the living room we see and accede to the beautiful landscape of the vineyards from which the wines “Morgadio da Calçada” are obtained.

In the present kitchen everything was designed to share with the visitors the gastronomic pleasure and tradition of the family in the preparation of the old recipes of Casa da Calçada’s cooks, with ingredients from the kitchen garden and the region.

Fonte:www.morgadiodacalcada.com

Outside, the space is quiet and pleasurable, shaded by large trees and with little corners that invite us to relax. The pool also makes a difference: it was built within the ruins of an old warehouse of the estate, staying in our memory for its originality.

Fonte:www.morgadiodacalcada.com

But the name “Morgadio da Calçada” is also the identity of several wines, always present in the customer service since the arrival to the unit.

Fonte:www.morgadiodacalcada.com

The wines are produced by Dirk Niepoort, under the partnership between Casa da Calçada and the Niepoort (Vinhos) SA company. Besides the Douro still wines with labels created by the Architect Siza Vieira, the brand “Morgadio da Calçada” also has 6 Port wines (Dry White, Tawny, Colheita 1998, Rubi, LBV e Vintage 2007), whose labels were designed by the Architect Michel Toussaint.

Fonte:www.morgadiodacalcada.com

A stay at the Morgadio da Calçada allows us as well to enjoy the experience of Provesende village, with grocery, bakery with an old stone oven (where bread is still baked), monuments and breath taking landscapes. At the wine tourism unit, it is also mandatory to visit the vineyards, the warehouses and the manor house, with large palatial halls. This is a way to know the stories of the family and the place, which are linked with the history of the Douro.

Fonte:www.morgadiodacalcada.com

After all, Morgadio da Calçada reflects the particular passion of its managing partners, Jerónimo Cunha e Pimentel and Manuel Villas-Boas, to share moments, spaces and stories to forever last in our memory.

Contacts:
Manuel Villas-Boas
mvb@morgadiodacalcada.com
Tlm +351 915 347 555
Tlm +351 937 745 886
Largo da Calçada/ Provesende
5060-251 Sabrosa, Douro – Portugal
Tel +351 254 732 218 | www.morgadiodacalcada.com